Grandma's Sewing Cabinet » Vintage Patterns

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Early 1950s Simplicity Stoles

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 16 Jan 2012 22:49:16 +0000

I’ve been on a massive organization kick for the past week. While digging around in our basement (burying the skeletons I found in the closet), I discovered that I have a lot more patterns than I thought I owned. I won’t need to be buying any for a long, long, long time.

Lo and behold! Look what I found! A pattern from the early 1950s for various stoles! I think adding it to my Only Own Beautiful Clothes collection was meant to be, don’t you?

The original owner traced the pattern pieces onto newspaper from the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Trenton Something in 1956. Since I haven’t lived in New Jersey since the summer of 2000, I’m guessing that this pattern was part of my early vintage pattern collecting endeavors.

Simplicity 4477 Stoles pattern; personal collection

All of the views look like capes from the back, it is the front that is different. I’m leaning towards View 2 because of the shawl collar, using hidden hook and eyes to keep it closed and to give it some shaping. Views 2 and 3 have inner armbands to help keep it on the shoulders.

It is only partially lined. I will probably line the entire thing and make several stoles to match the skirts and dresses I make in the collection because making it looks pretty straight forward.

Only Own Beautiful Clothes in 2012

By the way, there is still time to register for the Only Own Beautiful Clothes in 2012 virtual retreat (this link will take you to my other blog).

During this retreat you will learn how to:

Identify your style icon
Create your own style that showcases your personality
Outline a wardrobe plan the same way designers create their collections
Assess your current wardrobe
Develop a year-long game plan for only owning beautiful clothing that is in alignment with your budget

We’re going to have a great time and hope you’ll join us!

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: McCall’s One Yard “Instant” Skirt (1957)

Dr. Julie-Ann — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 01:06:55 +0000

When I came across this vintage skirt pattern years ago, I was drawn by the promise of making a skirt out of one pattern piece. They even show two women holding up yardage with the pattern pieces on it as if they were using a flannel-graph to tell a story in Sunday School. I’m not sure what the skirt and waistband are supposed to represent, however, if they really are telling a Sunday School story.

But I digress.

For these “instant” skirt patterns, all the seamstress had to do was pin the entire pattern tissue over one yard of folded fabric and then cut it out. See how easy that is? Because, as we know, having to lay out two pattern pieces on the fold can be quite daunting.

All joking aside, I am intrigued that the skirt is cut out of one piece. There are darts on the side seam to deal with the hip curve issue and then the usual number of darts in the front and back for shaping. I also like the walking pleat detail (and you know what a sucker I am for kick pleat details).

Skirt #1 McCall’s 4312 (1957)

McCall's #4312 "Instant Skirt" from 1957; Personal collection.

Because this is a basic skirt design that I know looks good on me, it will automatically be added to my “only own beautiful clothes in 2012″ wardrobe capsules. Yes, I know I already have a skirt that is almost identical to this one. I made it out of linen just a couple of months ago. But the idea of making a skirt without the side seams is a challenge I want to tackle.

Do you know what the skirt and waistband are supposed to represent in their flannel-graph Sunday School story? Because, surely, they aren’t planning on cutting out the pattern while holding the fabric that way…are they?

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: 1948 Vogue Tuxedo Blouse

Dr. Julie-Ann — Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:08:57 +0000

I did a little “snoop shopping” while I was at the mall last Saturday taking advantage of a couple of gift cards and sales. I noticed a couple of the better department stores had tuxedo blouses for sale.

This Vogue pattern from 1948 is for a blouse with tucked extensions in two styles. The view with the lace gives more of an illusion of a tuxedo blouse than the other one. I think it would look gorgeous in a georgette or chiffon.

Candidate #3: 1948 Vogue Blouse

Vogue 6296; Image from personal collection

Pros:

On trend
Vertical front seam and side dart will enable easier full bust adjustment
Vertical optical illusion
Back waist darts for shaping

Cons:

Do I really want to draw attention to that area of my body??? Even without the lace, the tucks are a design feature that will draw attention to my overly abundant chest
Buttons

What do you think? Do you think it would draw too much attention to my chest?

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Rita Hayworth Inspired Party Dress

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 18:55:52 +0000

Raise your hand if you’ve been known to start a party dress the day before (or the same day) as the party. Yeah, I knew I wasn’t the only one! We’re in luck, though, because we still have five and half sewing days until New Year’s Eve.

My Vintage Vogue put this photo of Rita Hayworth up last week.

Rita Hayworth, 1940s; Image courtesy of MyVintageVogue.tumblr.com

Even though it is a Christmas outfit, I was drawn in by the sweetheart neckline. I love sweetheart necklines because they can be either daring or modest (which is what I prefer) and still be quite flattering on the wearer.

For those of us that aren’t Rita Hayworth, we can get the gist of her Christmas outfit with something like this vintage McCall’s pattern from 1957:

This version of the dress isn’t quite so form fitting and the upper collar can be redrawn to meet at the lower neckline. I’d close it with hook and eyes and pin a bow on it. I think it would be fabulous in a jewel-toned taffeta or faille.

What do you think? Are you a sweetheart neckline person?

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Becoming Marilyn Day 2

Dr. Julie-Ann — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:27:03 +0000

Today is the second day of our playful exploration of this question: What would a nice, middle-class, homemaking, professor-type of a certain age woman wear if she were channeling a little bit of Marilyn?

Most people think of the iconic white dress from the scene in Some Like It Hot, where Marilyn Monroe stands over the subway grate and the dress blows up around her. They also think of her wearing form fitting “wiggle” dresses, similar to the one we looked at yesterday.

But Marilyn also wore suits:

Wardrobe test

And, so, I offer up this early 1950′s suit:

Simplicity 1278 Form Flattering Suit; Image courtesy of Patterngate on Flickr.com

What do you think?

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Becoming Marilyn Day 1

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:47:12 +0000

The much anticipated movie My Week With Marilyn, starring Michelle Williams, opens this week. The studio is offering a Becoming Marilyn Sweepstakes at their Facebook page, through November 27th, I believe. It includes a trip to New York, a makeover, and a $1,000 shopping spree at Bergdorf Goodman (in other words, you’ll be able to get a scarf and some other trinket and then the money is gone).

Like many, I am fascinated by Marilyn Monroe. The constant sadness in her eyes haunt me. I read her autobiography, My Story, and it was obvious that her mental world was crumbling all around her. Her version of her life was later contradicted by her many biographers. My grandfather met her while he worked at MGM and said “she was just too sweet to commit suicide.” He believed there was a conspiracy that resulted in her death.

Everyone has said that she just oozed sexuality and sensuality. I’m not sure that I want to actually ooze sexuality, but at my age, I wouldn’t mind confirmation that “I still have it.” And so, with that it mind, I decided to have a little fun and play with the idea this week of what a nice, middle-class, homemaking, professor-type of a certain age would wear if she were channeling a little bit of Marilyn.

Today’s entry:

I love the top stitching on the yoke detailing and the sensible pockets.

Butterick 7231

All Nestled Down For a Long Winter’s Nap {Etsy Treasury}

Dr. Julie-Ann — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:59:49 +0000

The days of Kodachrome Christmases are gone. But the photographs of eager children still in their pajamas on Christmas morning are burned into the collective memory of what a typical mid-century American Christmas was like.

Here are some vintage children’s sewing patterns so that you can recreate your own Kodachrome-inspired Christmas!

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Blue Suit

Dr. Julie-Ann — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:38:13 +0000

If you are like me, you look better in a sheath type dress suit rather than a skirt suit (and pant suits look horrific on me…I’m always in awe of those women who can actually pull it off without looking dumpy or matronly).

What I love about vintage sheath dresses is that they had a design element so that they weren’t plain like today’s basic (and almost always sleeveless) dresses are. I love the tab detail at the neckline of today’s inspiration that is repeated at the hem. The shirt-style jacket looks sophisticated without trying too hard.

How this dress could be replicated: Take a basic princess seam sheath pattern. Redirect the seam to the mid-shoulder, if you need to. Trace it so that you have a copy that you can cut up. Cut the top and bottom off of the center front to create the tabs (don’t forget to add overlap and seam allowances!). Tape the tab pattern pieces to the side front pieces. I’d sew the tab pieces to the center front (after applying a facing to finish the edges) and then attach the center front to the side front pieces. And, there you have it!

Image courtesy of April Mo on Flickr.com

Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Fine Dining Suit

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:51:09 +0000

Today’s Vintage Inspiration of the Day comes from Out of the Ashes Collectibles. I have ordered from Sheila many times and am always satisfied with my purchases.

I’ve been showing you how to draft your own skirt pattern and McCall’s 7584 is a perfect example of how this skirt can be “dressed up” using fine fabrics and a great top.

McCalls 7584; Image courtesy of Out of the Ashes Collectibles

Sew Inspired for the Holidays {An Etsy Treasury}

Dr. Julie-Ann — Sat, 12 Nov 2011 01:29:06 +0000

Yes, ladies, it is time to start making your vintage or vintage-inspired holiday party and cocktail dresses! Here are some wonderful patterns from Etsy to inspire you!