We don’t watch television as a general rule but the other night I caught the tail-end of the famous “puffy shirt” Seinfeld episode at my in-laws’ house.  Most assuredly, that puffy shirt was just awful which is why it was such a funny episode destined for “instant classic” status.

Not to . . . → Read More: Fashion Dictionary: Bishop Sleeves]]>

Jerry Seinfeld models The Puffy Shirt

We don’t watch television as a general rule but the other night I caught the tail-end of the famous “puffy shirt” Seinfeld episode at my in-laws’ house.  Most assuredly, that puffy shirt was just awful which is why it was such a funny episode destined for “instant classic” status.

Not to get technical, or anything but I would actually classify his shirt as a “bishop shirt.”  But that, of course, wouldn’t produce the same sort of snickers and laughs.

A bishop sleeve is a long sleeve that is wider at the bottom than at the top and gathered into a cuff.  While the top of the sleeve is usually akin to a set-in sleeve, it can also be gathered or slightly puffed.  The primary difference between a puff sleeve gathered into a cuff and a bishop sleeve gathered at the armhole is that a puff sleeve is short and the bishop is long.

Bishop Sleeve Illustration Courtesy of CatsMeowCollectables on eBay

An easy way to think about the construction of a bishop sleeve is to imagine a sleeve in the shape of a bell.  But I imagine that homemakers quickly discovered that the bell-shaped sleeve got caught in everything so they started putting them into cuffs to retain the general shape but to provide greater control.

Past Pattern #212

Being away from home, I don’t have access to my usual resources but my impression is that this type of sleeve first became popular in the mid-19th century and reached its fullness apogee (isn’t that a great word?) at the end of that century.  It became popular again during the mid-20th century.  In old movies, you can see the starlets wearing garments featuring this sleeve made from gauzy-like fabrics.

Do you have any patterns/garments that you would classify as having bishop sleeves?  Have I left out any important information?

I am elated that true red is coming back in vogue.  I have a beautiful red rayon . . . → Read More: American Beauty]]> According to the Pantone Institute’s Fall 2009 Fashion Color Report, American Beauty–a true red–is making a comeback this fall in response to our uncertain economic times.  “Perfect for all skin tones, American Beauty is a feel-good color,” the report continues.

I am elated that true red is coming back in vogue.  I have a beautiful red rayon in my fabric collection that has been aging for several years.  The drape is very soft and I’ve been debating making a more structured sheath-type dress or something flowy from it.

For the past few days, I’ve been scouting around for fall fabrics at various online shops and have been coming up dissatisfied.  I don’t know if it is because they are still trying to clear out their spring and summer fabrics or I am just too early to find anything.  I decided to try a different tactic and am exploring the online shops with the Pantone forecast in mind (instead of just browsing). Going from this direction, I was able to find several options at my favorite Chicago-based fabric store, Vogue Fabrics:

Although my monitor shows this as a little light, Vogue says it is scarlet colored. Even if it is a little light, I think we can get away with calling it a fall color. I LOVE the versatility of crepe fabrics. I have the Sewing Circle Girls (especially Carolyn and Lynn) to blame for my addiction to crepe! It usually has a great hand to it and can be used for dresses, suits, skirts, and slacks.Couture jersey crepe knit in “Scarlet”

I’m not a big fan of polyester double knit and I should probably get over my bias. Double knit has come a long way since the days of horrible stretchy pants and leisure suits! Bottom-weight polyester double knit in “Berry 39”

Finally, Thai silk dupioni has a mysteriousness and elegance surrounding it. Vogue offers it in a full spectrum of colors but the one in Blood Red #37 is the closest match to American Beauty (according to my monitor).

In my search, I tried a variety of key words that I normally think of as being a true red or close to a true red. I used terms such as scarlet, garnet, ruby, red (I know, sounds crazy, huh?), blood, lipstick, etc. You might try using those terms at your own favorite online fabric resource.

I recorded this podcast Tuesday evening, March 31st, and proceeded to be under the weather . . . → Read More: Podcast: Choosing Flattering Colors]]> I want to welcome our new listeners!  When I uploaded the podcast, I took a quick peak at the statistics and close to 1500 people have listened to the last podcast (so far).  As my Weight Watchers leader, Paige, would say, “Wowzers!”

I recorded this podcast Tuesday evening, March 31st, and proceeded to be under the weather for the next couple of days.  I appreciate your patience–although I enjoy scanning and cropping the illustrations, it does take a bit of time to do it.

In this podcast I discuss the cowboy/work shirt that I am making for My Honey.  Let me tell you, it is turning into quite an adventure.  I have a couple of “shout outs” (one of them is rather embaressing) and then I finish the McCall’s chapter on “Building a New You.”

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Here are the photos of the cowboy shirt.

Because it was going to be topstitched, I first handbasted it down.  I’m really trying to use more hand basting so that I can have more control.  I played with the photo a little bit so that you could see the red basting around the edge of the yoke, neckline, and arm.

Cowboy Shirt with Red Basting Prior to Topstitching

This the shirt after I topstitched it.  The thread is brown.  My Honey liked the contrast between the brown thread and tan fabric.

Shirt After It Was Topstitched (red basting at unfinished edges)

The Effect of Color

Image 1

Image 1: There are three basic colors: Red, Blue, Yellow.  These three primary colors are then blended together to create all other colors (you learned this way back in Kindergarten and First Grade).  The hues that come from the predominately Red and Blue combinations, are considered “cool” colors.  Those from Red and Yellow are considered Warm.  It is important to know which color families look the best on you.  I look ill or faded out when I try to wear warm colors but cool colors are very flattering on me.  Watch out for Reds.  You may think a red is a red is a red.  But “lipstick red” (a favorite name designers use) can be neutral, cool, or warm.  I look stunning in cool reds.  Warm reds are a disaster on me.

Image 2

Image 2: The lightness and darkness of a color–based on whether they are mixed with white or black–is called values.  The brightness or dullness of a color describe their intensity.

Image 3: Figure flattery is impacted by colors.  When I “restored” my hair (on a monthly basis) to the toehead color of my childhood, jewel-tones and black created a flattering contrast to my white hair.  Now that I am returning to my more natural shade of dark blonde, the black colors don’t seem as flattering.  I’m going to have to let go of my East Coast Uniform (black from head to toe).

That said, because I am shorter and rounder, I have to be careful to make sure that I don’t choose color combinations that will visually cut me in half.

Image 3

Wardrobe Needs

Image #4 shows that we can still be casual and stylish when we are at home:

Image #4: At Home Outfit

Image #5: Shows a simple dress, suit, skirt, jacket, and blouse that can be mixed and matched to form the foundation of an “on the job” wardrobe.

Image #5: On the Job Wardrobe

Image #6: An example of a dress to wear to school or informal gatherings (in the early 1960s).  Of course, this is where I go into my rant that these days young women are wearing clothes more appropriate for clubbing and snaring a partner than for wearing to school.  But then, I went to a school that had strict dress codes and it carried on with me through college.  In grad school, I was already a teacher, so of course I dressed professionally.

Image #6: What to Wear to School

Image #7: I love this image because of the plaid pants for casual wear.  Now, I don’t remember owning plaid slacks but I did at one time own a pair of yellow jeans with bright blue flowers on them and a pair of striped jeans.  Hey, it was the late 60′s and my grandmother bought them for me.

Image #7: Sportswear or Casual Wear

Image #8: While wearing slacks and shorts are no longer taboo when shopping in a downtown department store (if you can find one, anymore, that is), if you want better customer service when you shop, I encourage you to “dress” for shopping.  And don’t forget to wear your good undergarments–the same ones you plan on wearing with whatever you are buying.  It makes a difference in fit.

Image #8: For Shopping

Image #9:  Please!  For my sake!  Don’t wear your pajamas while traveling (well, of course you can when you are in bed).  Just like shopping, you will be treated a whole lot better if you are comfortable yet chic.  We take a lot of road trips and I usually wear a comfortable dress and low-heeled shoes or flats.  It isn’t hard.  It isn’t rocket science.  But you’ll be amazed by the difference (and you won’t be grumpy from having your jeans cut into you all day).

Image #9: For Travelling

Image #10  If you want to pretend that you are a “lady who lunches,” wear dressmaker suits, simple dresses, such as a sheath, a shirtwaist or a coat dress.  Think Jackie O.  Thank goodness we have a First Lady who is bringing these items back into style!

Image #10: For Club Activities

Images 11 & 12: The formality of your evening clothes will depend upon where you live and the type of function you are attending.  A Red Carpet walk for the opening of a movie is very different than a Red Carpet walk for the Oscars.  We will be attending a gala opening for a big art exhibit my husband is in at the end of the month.  Since we live in Los Angeles and we are talking about artists, the exhibit information had to be explicit in stating that this was a fancy event and business/cocktail dress attire was expected.  I’m sure that before they started doing this that the rich people showed up in shorts and Hawaiian shirts (Hollywood types do that all the time).

Image #11 Evening Parties

Image #12: Formal Evening Party

This is a variation on my Friday Finds theme…I finally found the MIA pattern on a Friday.  Clever, huh?  Hey, I’ve been battling with a DSL connection that has spent more time than up, today.  Bear with me and my corny jokes…

Did the vintage men’s shirt pattern go out for coffee?

Maybe . . . → Read More: MIA Man Pattern Found]]>

Gary's 50s Shirt: Simplicity 1407

This is a variation on my Friday Finds theme…I finally found the MIA pattern on a Friday.  Clever, huh?  Hey, I’ve been battling with a DSL connection that has spent more time than up, today.  Bear with me and my corny jokes…

Did the vintage men’s shirt pattern go out for coffee?

Maybe it decided to go to the club.

Or go for a round of golf.

Or go sailing.

Nope.  It was in the man-basement.  You know, those basements that are so awful that only men will venture into them.  I had to look through a couple of boxes but I finally found him.  He came along without a fuss.

I wasn’t sure if this pattern was from the 1940s or 50s so I did a little detective work.  According to the dating details offered by  Vintage4Me2 on eBay, I have determined that it was printed after 1953:

• 1000 series were used in 30′s, 40′s and 50′s–okay we can eliminate the 30′s because of the style of the pattern
• Single black bar above the price was introduced in 1953.  A-ha!  We’ve got a single black bar above the price.

My goal for this weekend is to cut out the two shirts for My Honey and the dress this weekend.  I have lots of work related stuff to do, so cutting out the shirts and dress will be my reward.