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	<title>Grandma&#039;s Sewing Cabinet &#187; hand stitching</title>
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	<description>For the Love of Sewing</description>
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		<title>Today&#8217;s Homework: Pickstitch Zipper</title>
		<link>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2011/05/19/todays-homework-pickstitch-zipper/</link>
		<comments>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2011/05/19/todays-homework-pickstitch-zipper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 May 2011 23:31:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Julie-Ann</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Design School]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hand Stitches]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hand stitching]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Picked Zipper Tutorial]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/?p=1137</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Dear Friends,</p> <p>The first time I saw a picked zipper was 20+ years ago when I was a special education teacher in New Jersey.  One of the paraprofessionals (they were still called teacher&#8217;s assistants back then) was making a prom dress for her daughter and was hand sewing in the zipper!  I thought she was <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; Read More: <a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2011/05/19/todays-homework-pickstitch-zipper/">Today&#8217;s Homework: Pickstitch Zipper</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!-- Start Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><!-- End Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><div class="shr-publisher-1137"></div><p>Dear Friends,</p>
<p>The first time I saw a picked zipper was 20+ years ago when I was a special education teacher in New Jersey.  One of the paraprofessionals (they were still called teacher&#8217;s assistants back then) was making a prom dress for her daughter and was hand sewing in the zipper!  I thought she was nuts and told her so but she had been taught to sew in Russia by old-school seamstresses and understood better than I did how elegant a picked zipper looks (especially in a gymnasium full of girls in poorly made prom dresses made out of acetate).</p>
<p>This week, my couture sewing technique homework is to sew a sample demonstrating that I know how to do a pickstitched zipper.  For the longest time, I let a hand sewn zipper intimate me.  But they are actually rather easy and can actually be a hybrid of machine and hand stitched sewing if the zipper is lapped.  The pickstitch is really just a variation of the backstitch&#8211;a stitch that some people consider stronger than even a machine sewn stitch.</p>
<p>Here is a tip from custom clothing for installing any zipper: Adjust the pattern so that the seam the zipper will go into is 1&#8243; wide instead of 5/8&#8243;.  For home sewing, it is only 3/8&#8243; bigger but it really makes a difference!</p>
<p>Here are the steps I used for my sample (I realize some of the stitching is hard to see because the thread and fabric match):</p>
<div id="attachment_1138" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1347.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1138" title="IMG_1347" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1347-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Baste a 1&quot; seam where the zipper will be inserted (regular stitching length for the rest of the seam) and press the seam allowances open</p></div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div id="attachment_1140" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1349.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1140" title="IMG_1349" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1349-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Open the zipper. Place it face down on the extended seam allowance with the zipper teeth centered on the seam. Pin in place. </p></div>
<div id="attachment_1142" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1351.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1142" title="IMG_1351" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1351-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Machine baste from the bottom (needle to the left of the zipper foot) using the zipper coils as a guide.</p></div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div id="attachment_1145" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1354.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1145" title="IMG_1354" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1354-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Close zipper and turn it face up.  Press the fabric away from the zipper (you should see about 1/8&quot; seam allowance between the &quot;center seam&quot; basting (first seam you sewed) and the basted seam you just sewed. Edgestitch through folded seam allowance, using the edge of the fabric as your guide (needle on right side of zipper foot).</p></div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<div id="attachment_1148" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1357.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1148" title="IMG_1357" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1357-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Edgestitching</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1150" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1359.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1150" title="IMG_1359" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1359-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Take out &quot;center seam&quot; basting (optional)</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1152" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1361.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1152" title="IMG_1361" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1361-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Lay the free folded edge over the zipper, making sure the stitching is covered.  Create a stitching guide using 1/2&quot; transparent tape.  Pin the fabric to the zipper tape along the tape edge</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1157" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1366.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1157" title="IMG_1366" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1366-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Working right to left and using a variation of the backstitch, come up from underneath and pull the thread through.  Stab the fabric and direct the needle to come out from behind about 3/8&quot; from the entry point.  Pull thread through and stab the needle through the fabric about 1/16&quot; back from where the needle came out bringing it up again approximately 3/8&quot; further along the stitching line.  The stitches should be firm but not tight.  We don&#39;t want any puckering caused by overzealous stitching. </p></div>
<div id="attachment_1163" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1372.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1163" title="IMG_1372" src="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/IMG_1372-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="225" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">When you&#39;ve finished stitching, remove the tape and enjoy your handiwork.  As you can see, the stitches are barely visible.  You can use a heavier thread or beading to give it a decorative look if you&#39;d like.</p></div>
<p>As you can see, sewing in a zipper by hand is rather easy.  In fact, it might actually be easier than inserting it by machine.  So what do you think?  Will you use this technique?  <a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2011/05/19/todays-homework-pickstitch-zipper/#respond">Click here to join the discussion.</a></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Thursday Theatrics: Signe&#8217; Chanel</title>
		<link>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/07/30/thursday-theatrics-signe-chanel/</link>
		<comments>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/07/30/thursday-theatrics-signe-chanel/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:47:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Julie-Ann</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[hand stitching]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[How to Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chanel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/?p=253</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>Els from Sewing Divas has ruined my life.  Okay, not really.  The other day, she showcased a Chanel dress and fabric on her blog and then casually mentioned a documentary from several years ago called Signe&#8217; Chanel that is available in parts on You Tube.  I am now obsessed with this documentary (I&#8217;ve only had <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; Read More: <a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/07/30/thursday-theatrics-signe-chanel/">Thursday Theatrics: Signe&#8217; Chanel</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!-- Start Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><!-- End Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><div class="shr-publisher-253"></div><p>Els from <a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Sewing Divas</a> has ruined my life.  Okay, not really.  The other day, she showcased a<a href="http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2009/07/19/the-making-of-chanel-couture/" target="_blank"> Chanel dress and fabric on her blog</a> and then casually mentioned a documentary from several years ago called<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMcf4O7B74Q" target="_blank"> Signe&#8217; Chanel </a>that is available in parts on You Tube.  I am now obsessed with this documentary (I&#8217;ve only had time to watch the first two parts).</p>
<p>One of the things that struck me right away is that these high-end dresses are basically stitched completely by <em>hand.</em> It really has given me a new perspective on things.  I remember when I was still a special education teacher, one my aides&#8211;who was an Eastern European immigrant&#8211;was making her daughter&#8217;s prom dress with mostly hand stitches.  She labored over it for weeks during every break and during lunch.  I remember thinking that it was a lot of work and wondering why she wasn&#8217;t using her sewing machine for it.  Well, the truth is, the dress was stunning.  And I wonder if it would have been <em>as </em>stunning if she had stitched it with her machine.  I also met someone who felt she could do a better job and sew faster by hand than she could by machine.  Hmmm, maybe they are onto something?</p>
<p>I love the women who work for the House of Chanel.  Karl Lagerfield, however, comes off as a self-absorbed donkey&#8217;s behind.  But, I guess if you are Karl Lagerfield, you can get away with it *smile*</p>
<p><strong>Part 1:</strong></p>
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<p><a href="http://www.fashvids.com/2007/05/documentary-sign-chanel-by-loc-prigent.html" target="_blank">Click here to view the entire documentary</a></p>
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		<title>Thursday Theatrics: The Zen of Mending</title>
		<link>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/05/15/thursday-theatrics-the-zen-of-mending/</link>
		<comments>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/05/15/thursday-theatrics-the-zen-of-mending/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 15 May 2009 01:24:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Julie-Ann</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[hand stitching]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[How to Videos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Tutorials]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[darning]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mending]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/?p=185</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>One day, during my UCLA days, I was helping My Honey with the laundry (yes, he has been the main launderer in our home since my grad school days) when I noticed that one of his work shirts only had something like two buttons on it.  He was using safety pins to hold it together!  <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; Read More: <a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2009/05/15/thursday-theatrics-the-zen-of-mending/">Thursday Theatrics: The Zen of Mending</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!-- Start Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><!-- End Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><div class="shr-publisher-185"></div><p>One day, during my UCLA days, I was helping My Honey with the laundry (yes, he has been the main launderer in our home since my grad school days) when I noticed that one of his work shirts only had something like two buttons on it.  He was using safety pins to hold it together!  Well, of course, that didn&#8217;t sit very well with me.  What kind of sewing blogger/podcaster would I be if My Honey was running around with safety-pins for buttons!  I hadn&#8217;t know about this shirt because he never wore it while I was at home.  He told me that he didn&#8217;t care and not to bother, but I took delight in sewing a new set of buttons on it.  He didn&#8217;t know it but my Viking #1+ does buttons in no time at all.  There is something satisfying about mending, especially in our throw-away culture.  Because of our skills, we are able to resuscitate an item and extend its life.</p>
<p>I have compiled several &#8220;how to mend&#8221; videos to help you learn how to mend and darn correctly.  I&#8217;ll have to admit that this has been a real learning experience for me because I never learned the proper way to do these things.  I&#8217;m looking forward to my next mending project because I now have confidence that the mend will look much better than I have done in the past.  Who knew that there were mending techniques beyond just doing basic hand stitches?</p>
<p>When I was growing up, I remember watching my mother darn socks.  She didn&#8217;t have a darning egg, so she used a standard light bulb (now that light bulbs are curly, we&#8217;ll have to find another substitute such as those plastic eggs left over from Easter).  But, until I started looking for resources for this blog posting, I really didn&#8217;t understand that there is a difference between mending and darning. Essentially, darning is weaving new fabric to fill in the hole.  I always thought it was about closing the circle up rather than creating new fabric.  Check your sewing machine manual.  Many machines have darning capabilities built in.  Here are two tutorials that show you how to darn socks.  My thinking is that you would want to darn your socks before the holes get as big as they are in the tutorials, but that just may be me&#8230;</p>
<p>Question: If you do machine darning, would you use stabilizer when creating the fabric?  I know people who use their machines to create lace use it, but I wasn&#8217;t wondering about darning.  Use the comments section to share your thoughts on to stabilize or to not stabilize.</p>
<p><a href="http://zigzagstitch.wordpress.com/2009/02/26/how-to-do-it-darn-socks/" target="_blank">How to do it: Darn Socks from the Zig Zag Stitch blog</a></p>
<p>How to Darn Socks video<br />
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<p>Karen from ExpertVillage.com has created three videos that will help you repair a straight rip using a hand-sewn blind stitch and an &#8220;L&#8221; stitch using a satin stitch (this is in 2 parts).  She makes it seem so easy!  I now know how to mend correctly!</p>
<div><object width="491" height="424" data="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=422430328&amp;flv=21220_mend-clothes-blind-stitch" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"><param name="id" value="ev_player" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><param name="src" value="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=422430328&amp;flv=21220_mend-clothes-blind-stitch" /></object><br />
<a style="color:#003399;font-size:12px;font-family:Sans-Serif;display:inline;padding:4px;" href="http://www.expertvillage.com/video/25010_mend-clothes-blind-stitch.htm" target="_blank">How to Use a Hand Sewn Blind Stitch to Fix a Tear</a> &#8212; powered by ExpertVillage.com</div>
<div><object width="491" height="424" data="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=-298319217&amp;flv=21230_mend-clothes-repair-rip" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"><param name="id" value="ev_player" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><param name="src" value="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=-298319217&amp;flv=21230_mend-clothes-repair-rip" /></object><br />
<a style="color:#003399;font-size:12px;font-family:Sans-Serif;display:inline;padding:4px;" href="http://www.expertvillage.com/video/25012_mend-clothes-repair-rip.htm" target="_blank">How to Repair a Rip with a Machine Sewn Satin Stitch: Part 1</a> &#8212; powered by ExpertVillage.com</div>
<div><object width="491" height="424" data="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=-298273561&amp;flv=21234_mend-clothes-repair-machine" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"><param name="id" value="ev_player" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><param name="wmode" value="transparent" /><param name="src" value="http://cdn-www.expertvillage.com/player-demandstudio.swf?cacheBuster=-298273561&amp;flv=21234_mend-clothes-repair-machine" /></object><br />
<a style="color:#003399;font-size:12px;font-family:Sans-Serif;display:inline;padding:4px;" href="http://www.expertvillage.com/video/25013_mend-clothes-repair-machine.htm" target="_blank">How to Repair a Rip with a Machine Sewn Satin Stitch: Part 2</a> &#8212; powered by ExpertVillage.com</div>
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		<title>Thursday Theatrics: Hand Stitching~Basic Running Stitch</title>
		<link>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2008/11/13/thursday-theatrics-hand-stitchingbasic-running-stitch/</link>
		<comments>http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2008/11/13/thursday-theatrics-hand-stitchingbasic-running-stitch/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2008 11:24:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Dr. Julie-Ann</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[basic running stitch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hand stitching]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[<p>I think one of the major downsides of basically being a self-taught seamstress is that I never learned how to do the basic hand stitches that are so critical for a well-made outfit. I usually just fudge my way through it, but I&#8217;ve always felt a little self-conscious about my hand-work. When I look at <span style="color:#777"> . . . &#8594; Read More: <a href="http://grandmassewingcabinet.com/2008/11/13/thursday-theatrics-hand-stitchingbasic-running-stitch/">Thursday Theatrics: Hand Stitching~Basic Running Stitch</a></span>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<!-- Start Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><!-- End Shareaholic LikeButtonSetTop Automatic --><div class="shr-publisher-65"></div><p>I think one of the major downsides of basically being a self-taught seamstress is that I never learned how to do the basic hand stitches that are so critical for a well-made outfit.  I usually just fudge my way through it, but I&#8217;ve always felt a little self-conscious about my hand-work.  When I look at vintage clothes, I am always in awe of the wonderful construction techniques that I think are lost in our &#8220;hurry up and get it done&#8221; world.</p>
<p>I have my old sewing books but sometimes I just need to see a demonstration of something in order to &#8220;get it.&#8221;  Expert Village at You Tube has come to my rescue!  In the coming weeks, I will feature videos of basic stitches.</p>
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