Grandma's Sewing Cabinet » flattering styles

Project Run-Clothes-For-The Rest-Of Us

Dr. Julie-Ann — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 02:39:11 +0000

When people hear that I have been taking fashion design courses, they often ask if I’m going to go on Project Runway. My answer is immediate: Ummmm, no. It’s hard enough doing all of that stuff under a deadline for a course, I can’t imagine what it would be like to try to complete an entire garment in 24-48 hours.

But, in honor of the new season of Project Runway, I thought I would show a clip synthesizing the Fall 2010 collections to get us in the mood for some fall sewing. I didn’t find anything I liked. Truth is, I want to look at stuff I could imagine me wearing…not something like the Donna Karan Vogue Pattern I talked about yesterday. (I loved Betty’s comment about it on the Facebook fan page: “It looks like she forgot to sew up the back and decided to just tie up the corners and tuck in the raw edges! No one will notice, right?”). So much of the runway stuff I saw looked completely unwearable in real life. I’m going to go out on a limb and just say it: Just because it is on a runway doesn’t mean that it is fashionable.

So, in desperation, I decided to go to individual designer’s sites to see what I could find. I was rewarded at the Chanel site with the Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture collection. While the collection didn’t reflect Vogue Pattern’s Fall Fashion Forecast (PDF File) exactly, the influence was there.

Okay, so why did I like the collection so much? Generally speaking, I loved the silhouettes. I don’t know if it is the influence of my sculptor husband but form is one of the first things I notice (the texture of how light plays with color is the other thing). The silhouettes in this collection are completely wearable or easily adapted for real life. I’m not going to wear a brocade dress to work, but I could see myself wearing that particular shape. There were a lot of flared skirts and sheath dresses. The designs were feminine and timeless and person who is not six feet tall and weighing only 100 pounds could wear them, too.

There are several variations on the sheath with a cropped back-closing jacket (see the maroon photo above). After I had my dissertation defense, I started working on a vintage pattern from the late 40′s with that silhouette to wear to my graduation party. Alas, I ran out of time and bought a cute little party dress. I still like that silhouette but think that with my current bustiness, I’d have to add darts to make it curve under the bust instead of just hanging straight down.

Oh, and before I give you the link (since I can’t find a way to embed the video), I just have to tell you that I hated the clompy boots. It’s bad enough that models stomp their way around the runway but the boots make it worse. I thought for sure some of those girls were going to fall! (And don’t get me started on wanting to brush their hair! *arghh* I’ve turned into my mother!!! *laugh*)

Click here to watch show (approximately 15 minutes)

Click here to see the individual pieces

I Mean, Really?? Oh, Come On!

Dr. Julie-Ann — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:23:04 +0000

Is it just me, or does this new Donna Karan pattern from Vogue (#V1202) look like she got her skirt and her top stuck in her pantyhose?

Donna Karan Vogue Pattern #V1202

The front is just as much of a mess as the back:

Seriously. Who are the pattern companies designing for these days? Obviously not for me! And I can’t even begin to imagine what would happen if I tried to turn in a design like this for a class project. I am dismayed that I keep seeing this pattern pop up in Vogue Pattern advertising. You’d think they’d want to hide it!

I find it interesting that when they show a closeup of the skirt, it is with a different top:

With this top, the skirt turns into something interesting rather than the disaster it is with the top that is part of the pattern.

As the fabulous Tom & Lorenzo would say, this is definitely an “out.”

With Curves, A Seam is Always Better

Dr. Julie-Ann — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 01:15:27 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I’m a very curvy woman. My perfect hourglass shape of my younger days has turned into an hourglass-ish with padding shape. Over the years, I’ve noted that princess seamed tops and dresses seem to look the best on me. The other night, my flat pattern drafting professor confirmed my hunch.

Last week was the first week of the semester and we were starting out learning how to draft an easy design– the basic block skirt–using only measurements (we measured our dress forms and then put them away). The basic block skirt consists of two darts in front and four darts in back. We need more darts in the back because we are going over our backside.

One of the things I’ve learned by being in this program is that there are general rules to design. Believe it or not, there are standard dart widths and depths. There is also a standard regarding how far apart they should be located from each other. Now, I know that there is no such thing as a perfect size 8 because all of our dress forms have different measurements (off by as much as an inch) and are supposedly all perfect size 8′s. But, I wanted to know how to handle darts for women who are curvier like me. Do I make the darts deeper? Is the dart intake wider? So, I asked my professor what the action plan would be. Her response? Seams.

I must have looked confused because she then clarified. She said that if we are talking about curvy curves, then it is better to make a seam rather than wrestle with a dart. The seam will enable the fabric to glide over the curves without the issues that would come up with darts (weird placement, bulkiness, etc). She then told me to think of a beach ball. A beach ball isn’t made up of a bunch of darts. No, it is made up of a bunch of seams that enable it inflate perfectly.

The moral of the story is this: If you are curvaceous like me, the next time you are choosing a pattern, look for the ones that will work with your curves rather than against them. With curves, a seam is always better.

Thursday Theatrics: From When Women Would Glide

Dr. Julie-Ann — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 22:38:12 +0000

I can’t stand watching current fashion shows. They are overproduced and the models all look angry as they stomp down the runway.

Contrast that with fashion shows from the 1950s. The women glided down the runway. Today’s Thursday Theatric is a montage of fashion shows and films from the 1950s. They are pure glamor. No wonder I’m drawn to it!

A Firm Foundation

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 21:12:24 +0000

Maidenform Ad Early 1960's

When I was a teenager, my older sister worked at Robinson’s Department Store in the foundations department. There was a time when lingerie was lingerie and foundations were foundations. Lingerie was the beautiful stuff you wore in private moments. Foundations were the bras and girdles you wore so that your clothes fit you well.

I think we should go back to calling our undergarments “foundations.” If we did that, then we would have a better understanding of the importance of well-fitting undergarments. A bra that doesn’t fit will visually add 10 pounds and a matronly look to the clothes you worked so hard to make. A protruding stomach and “hip fluff” will ruin the line of the garment.

Although I’m a nag about making sure my readers/listeners are wearing the right bra, the importance of a quality bra was driven home to me the other day while I was at Nordstrom’s for my fitting.

Because of the economy, I had to put off buying new bras. But it had reached a point that I couldn’t put it off any longer. I usually will wear a fitted sweater to my fittings. It helps me get a better visual if I put the sweater on after I put on the bra I’m trying on. The bunching and bulging really shows up after I put the sweater on. If I look good in the sweater, then I know the bra is a keeper.

Surprisingly, my size hadn’t changed. But I went with a different brand than I had before–Fantasie. These are not inexpensive bras by any means. But the difference was night and day between what I had been wearing and the new bras. As they say in the commercials, the new bras help me look more “uplifted and youthful.” I seriously looked 10 pounds lighter. (As an added bonus, a well fitting bra will reduce shoulder and back pain–the shoulder straps shouldn’t be holding everything up. Think European style where the bra band does all of the work)

Since moving to California, I usually am bare-legged ten months out of the year. In the dressing room, I was noticing the impact of not wearing super-control-top pantyhose. Every bulge and pooch showed. I looked kind of dumpy. Not the image I want to convey. Either I’m going to have to get serious about Buns, Thighs, and Abs of Steel or I’m going to have to wear the undergarments that will give me the look I desire.

So why am I talking about undergarments on a sewing blog? Because if you are dissatisfied with the way your garments look on you, you might consider that the problem is with your undergarments and not your sewing ability.

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions-Part 4

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 01:28:20 +0000

Wait! There’s more! ABC’s official red carpet show has just started and Tim Gunn is interviewing people with Robin Roberts. This is definately a definately edited version of the show. I’m not sure I can keep up.

Sarah Jessica Parker is wearing Dior Haute Couture. I am a fan of The New Look but JSP’s dress just looks poofy. If it had been closer to The New Look, it probably would have worked. I know a lot of people think of SJP as a style icon but she and I have different tastes, apparently. I guess this dress would be in the “almost worked” category. As a sewist, it’s nice to know that even Dior Haute Couture can have misses sometimes.

Viola Davis’s gold (copper?) lame’ dress showcases her beautiful figure and is glamorous without being too showy. It seems to fit her personality.

Tim Gunn just interviewed Anne Hathoway. She just might officially be my new favorite actress. She is standing there in a drop-dead gorgeous gown talking to TIM GUNN and she seems so natural and real. She is wearing the gown. The gown is not wearing her.

Tim Gunn is interviewing Penelope Cruz wearing a vintage gown that she first saw 8 years ago. It evokes princess without being overwhelming. The bodice is fitted and then the skirt is full but not too full.

Tim Gunn is interviewing Marisa Tomei and called the dress ravishing. Apparently, it arrived this morning. That’s cutting it a bit close, I’d say. What would she have worn if it hadn’t arrived? It is Versace.

Ah, now this show is wrapping up, too. While the Academy Awards show is on, I will be attending to My Honey’s fashion by cutting out his shirt.

What do you think? Do you agree with my assessments?

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions–Part 3

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:57:13 +0000

I just caught a glimpse of Natalie Portman and it is another winner. She is not weighed down with glitter. The bodice is fitted but then the dress just flows out from her waist. She looks young, fresh, and comfortable.

I also caught a glimpse of Queen Latifah’s dress. Hopefully I’ll get another look. But my first reaction was “oh dear.”

Sophia Loren is in a fish-tail dress with tiers at the bottom!

Queen Latifah is being interviewed right now and my impression of her dress has not changed (even though it is blue). It is kind of disappointing because she usually has good fashion sense. But this dress is “too much.” It has a huge train that seems cumbersome.

Randolph Duke just said the Marisa Tomei looks like she is wearing too many “napkins” because of her ballgown with too much train and too many pleats.

Anne Hathaway is channeling Audrey Hepburn. Simple, elegant, bias cut gown. She has really grown up to be a new fashion icon. She looks very comfortable and makes it look so easy.

Meryl Steep is showing that mature women can be glamorous, too.

I only got a glimpse of Kate Winslet…I need more, please.

The show is going to start in about 15 minutes so everything is being pushed up to a frantic pace. Hollywood royalty shows up at the last and, before going to commercial, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie stopped at the first checkpoint (I don’t know if it is before or after the security tent).

Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie being interviewed now. She is is understated in a black Grecian-style dress.

Ah, Kate Winslet is being interviewed now. I don’t care for the neckline/off one shoulder (it was like they couldn’t decide) but other than that I love the fabric and the the flattering cut of the dress. I think it is charcoal colored, but I couldn’t tell for sure.

Well, the pre-Oscar show is over, so I’ll send this off. I hope you had fun reading!

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions–Part 2

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:17:23 +0000

Long-time readers and listeners will know that I am blue freak. I LOVE jewel-tone blues and LOVE Freida Pinto’s dress. It is perfect for his skintone and reminds me a little bit of a sari which would be relection of her home culture because of the one shoulder emphasis, the jewel tone, and the use of chiffon.

Virginia Madsen’s red dress had an interesting neckline but, again, she doesn’t look like she is comfortable in it.

Fashion trend I’m noticing: tiers. Many of the women are wearing dresses that have chiffon/sheer fabric tiers on both flowy and column dresses.

Yay! Randolph Duke just “agreed” with me about young women wearing dresses that are too grown-up for them. It’s not just me!

I’m not sure if people know this but there are basically two lanes on the red carpet. In one lane, “the famous people” are interviewed and pose for the cameras. The other lane is for the rest of the attendees. In the “rest of the attendees” lane, you see less glamorous gowns and more matronly styles. Think “mother of the bride” dresses and you’ll get an idea of what most of the women are wearing to the awards.

Amy Adams’ look didn’t do it for me. The drapy chiffon thing in the front looked like she got a really fancy napkin stuck in the front of her dress and no-one told her. The really heavy bead necklace didn’t help the look.

Yikes! I just got a glimple of Sarah Jessica Parker! I take back what I said about Miley Cyrus. SJP looks like she is competing in the Glenda-the-Good-Witch fashion show. I’ll have to look again but it really looks way too young for a woman her age. At first glance, she looks like she is stuck in fairy princess mode. I might look to see if I can copy it for my next Fairy Godmother Coaching photo shoot.

Diane Lane ALWAYS looks so elegant and beautiful. She’s in a black dress and looks like she could say “this old thing?” at any moment because she looks radiant and comfortable in it. That’s the way it should be, I think.

Time to send this edition off.

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions-Part 1

Dr. Julie-Ann — Sun, 22 Feb 2009 23:37:38 +0000

Audrey Hepburn in 1954

The best (and worse) thing about living in Los Angeles is all of the fuss about film (and TV) awards ceremonies. The ultimate, of course, is the Academy Awards. I don’t know about other regions of the country, but The Oscars have been dominating the local news for a couple of weeks now.

The truth? I haven’t seen any of the films that have been nominated. However, that doesn’t keep me from sitting here on the sofa in anticipation of the fashions. New York may have fashion week, sorry…Fashion Week, but we have the high glamour of The Red Carpet.

My intent is to blog my way through the pre-ceremony festivities, giving you “off the cuff” thoughts. I am flipping between KABC and KTLA (no cable, so I don’t get those fashion oriented pre-Oscar shows) ready to share my thoughts with you. Unfortunately, I can’t find photos as we go. Hopefully, I’ll be able to add them later.

First up: Miley Cyrus. Now, I KNOW that there are a lot of people who adore Miley Cyrus. I’m not one of her fans. She reminds me too much of the Hollywood Teenage Types that I grew up with that are really annoying in person. Well, now I have something to REALLY be annoyed about! She is trying to steal my fairy-godmother dress away from me!!

Phoebe Cates looked matronly. Ack! She is only a year and a half younger than me! And, apparently it is from one of her own stores.

On the other hand, there are a lot of women in their late teens-early 20′s who are dressing way too “maturely” for their age. I don’t know the names of most of those women. They just remind me of little girls playing dress-up…they don’t necessarily look like they are comfortable in the dress…it isn’t natural. And isn’t that one of the first rules of style? Your clothing has to be a reflection of who you are? I’m not against getting dressed up to the hilt. But that hilt, I think, should really be about the wearer, not the designer.

Okay, time to send this edition.