Grandma's Sewing Cabinet » flattering styles

Project Run-Clothes-For-The Rest-Of Us

Dr. Julie-Ann — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 02:39:11 +0000

When people hear that I have been taking fashion design courses, they often ask if I’m going to go on Project Runway. My answer is immediate: Ummmm, no. It’s hard enough doing all of that stuff under a deadline for a course, I can’t imagine what it would be like to try to complete an entire garment in 24-48 hours.

But, in honor of the new season of Project Runway, I thought I would show a clip synthesizing the Fall 2010 collections to get us in the mood for some fall sewing. I didn’t find anything I liked. Truth is, I want to look at stuff I could imagine me wearing…not something like the Donna Karan Vogue Pattern I talked about yesterday. (I loved Betty’s comment about it on the Facebook fan page: “It looks like she forgot to sew up the back and decided to just tie up the corners and tuck in the raw edges! No one will notice, right?”). So much of the runway stuff I saw looked completely unwearable in real life. I’m going to go out on a limb and just say it: Just because it is on a runway doesn’t mean that it is fashionable.

So, in desperation, I decided to go to individual designer’s sites to see what I could find. I was rewarded at the Chanel site with the Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture collection. While the collection didn’t reflect Vogue Pattern’s Fall Fashion Forecast (PDF File) exactly, the influence was there.

Okay, so why did I like the collection so much? Generally speaking, I loved the silhouettes. I don’t know if it is the influence of my sculptor husband but form is one of the first things I notice (the texture of how light plays with color is the other thing). The silhouettes in this collection are completely wearable or easily adapted for real life. I’m not going to wear a brocade dress to work, but I could see myself wearing that particular shape. There were a lot of flared skirts and sheath dresses. The designs were feminine and timeless and person who is not six feet tall and weighing only 100 pounds could wear them, too.

There are several variations on the sheath with a cropped back-closing jacket (see the maroon photo above). After I had my dissertation defense, I started working on a vintage pattern from the late 40′s with that silhouette to wear to my graduation party. Alas, I ran out of time and bought a cute little party dress. I still like that silhouette but think that with my current bustiness, I’d have to add darts to make it curve under the bust instead of just hanging straight down.

Oh, and before I give you the link (since I can’t find a way to embed the video), I just have to tell you that I hated the clompy boots. It’s bad enough that models stomp their way around the runway but the boots make it worse. I thought for sure some of those girls were going to fall! (And don’t get me started on wanting to brush their hair! *arghh* I’ve turned into my mother!!! *laugh*)

Click here to watch show (approximately 15 minutes)

Click here to see the individual pieces

I Mean, Really?? Oh, Come On!

Dr. Julie-Ann — Wed, 28 Jul 2010 21:23:04 +0000

Is it just me, or does this new Donna Karan pattern from Vogue (#V1202) look like she got her skirt and her top stuck in her pantyhose?

Donna Karan Vogue Pattern #V1202

The front is just as much of a mess as the back:

Seriously. Who are the pattern companies designing for these days? Obviously not for me! And I can’t even begin to imagine what would happen if I tried to turn in a design like this for a class project. I am dismayed that I keep seeing this pattern pop up in Vogue Pattern advertising. You’d think they’d want to hide it!

I find it interesting that when they show a closeup of the skirt, it is with a different top:

With this top, the skirt turns into something interesting rather than the disaster it is with the top that is part of the pattern.

As the fabulous Tom & Lorenzo would say, this is definitely an “out.”

With Curves, A Seam is Always Better

Dr. Julie-Ann — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 01:15:27 +0000

I don’t know about you, but I’m a very curvy woman. My perfect hourglass shape of my younger days has turned into an hourglass-ish with padding shape. Over the years, I’ve noted that princess seamed tops and dresses seem to look the best on me. The other night, my flat pattern drafting professor confirmed my hunch.

Last week was the first week of the semester and we were starting out learning how to draft an easy design– the basic block skirt–using only measurements (we measured our dress forms and then put them away). The basic block skirt consists of two darts in front and four darts in back. We need more darts in the back because we are going over our backside.

One of the things I’ve learned by being in this program is that there are general rules to design. Believe it or not, there are standard dart widths and depths. There is also a standard regarding how far apart they should be located from each other. Now, I know that there is no such thing as a perfect size 8 because all of our dress forms have different measurements (off by as much as an inch) and are supposedly all perfect size 8′s. But, I wanted to know how to handle darts for women who are curvier like me. Do I make the darts deeper? Is the dart intake wider? So, I asked my professor what the action plan would be. Her response? Seams.

I must have looked confused because she then clarified. She said that if we are talking about curvy curves, then it is better to make a seam rather than wrestle with a dart. The seam will enable the fabric to glide over the curves without the issues that would come up with darts (weird placement, bulkiness, etc). She then told me to think of a beach ball. A beach ball isn’t made up of a bunch of darts. No, it is made up of a bunch of seams that enable it inflate perfectly.

The moral of the story is this: If you are curvaceous like me, the next time you are choosing a pattern, look for the ones that will work with your curves rather than against them. With curves, a seam is always better.

Thursday Theatrics: From When Women Would Glide

Dr. Julie-Ann — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 22:38:12 +0000

I can’t stand watching current fashion shows. They are overproduced and the models all look angry as they stomp down the runway.

Contrast that with fashion shows from the 1950s. The women glided down the runway. Today’s Thursday Theatric is a montage of fashion shows and films from the 1950s. They are pure glamor. No wonder I’m drawn to it!

A Firm Foundation

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 21:12:24 +0000

Maidenform Ad Early 1960's

When I was a teenager, my older sister worked at Robinson’s Department Store in the foundations department. There was a time when lingerie was lingerie and foundations were foundations. Lingerie was the beautiful stuff you wore in private moments. Foundations were the bras and girdles you wore so that your clothes fit you well.

I think we should go back to calling our undergarments “foundations.” If we did that, then we would have a better understanding of the importance of well-fitting undergarments. A bra that doesn’t fit will visually add 10 pounds and a matronly look to the clothes you worked so hard to make. A protruding stomach and “hip fluff” will ruin the line of the garment.

Although I’m a nag about making sure my readers/listeners are wearing the right bra, the importance of a quality bra was driven home to me the other day while I was at Nordstrom’s for my fitting.

Because of the economy, I had to put off buying new bras. But it had reached a point that I couldn’t put it off any longer. I usually will wear a fitted sweater to my fittings. It helps me get a better visual if I put the sweater on after I put on the bra I’m trying on. The bunching and bulging really shows up after I put the sweater on. If I look good in the sweater, then I know the bra is a keeper.

Surprisingly, my size hadn’t changed. But I went with a different brand than I had before–Fantasie. These are not inexpensive bras by any means. But the difference was night and day between what I had been wearing and the new bras. As they say in the commercials, the new bras help me look more “uplifted and youthful.” I seriously looked 10 pounds lighter. (As an added bonus, a well fitting bra will reduce shoulder and back pain–the shoulder straps shouldn’t be holding everything up. Think European style where the bra band does all of the work)

Since moving to California, I usually am bare-legged ten months out of the year. In the dressing room, I was noticing the impact of not wearing super-control-top pantyhose. Every bulge and pooch showed. I looked kind of dumpy. Not the image I want to convey. Either I’m going to have to get serious about Buns, Thighs, and Abs of Steel or I’m going to have to wear the undergarments that will give me the look I desire.

So why am I talking about undergarments on a sewing blog? Because if you are dissatisfied with the way your garments look on you, you might consider that the problem is with your undergarments and not your sewing ability.

Podcast: Choosing Flattering Colors

Dr. Julie-Ann — Sat, 04 Apr 2009 03:17:46 +0000

I want to welcome our new listeners! When I uploaded the podcast, I took a quick peak at the statistics and close to 1500 people have listened to the last podcast (so far). As my Weight Watchers leader, Paige, would say, “Wowzers!”

I recorded this podcast Tuesday evening, March 31st, and proceeded to be under the weather for the next couple of days. I appreciate your patience–although I enjoy scanning and cropping the illustrations, it does take a bit of time to do it.

In this podcast I discuss the cowboy/work shirt that I am making for My Honey. Let me tell you, it is turning into quite an adventure. I have a couple of “shout outs” (one of them is rather embaressing) and then I finish the McCall’s chapter on “Building a New You.”

Click here to listen via direct download

Click here to listen via iTunes

Here are the photos of the cowboy shirt.

Because it was going to be topstitched, I first handbasted it down. I’m really trying to use more hand basting so that I can have more control. I played with the photo a little bit so that you could see the red basting around the edge of the yoke, neckline, and arm.

Cowboy Shirt with Red Basting Prior to Topstitching

This the shirt after I topstitched it. The thread is brown. My Honey liked the contrast between the brown thread and tan fabric.

Shirt After It Was Topstitched (red basting at unfinished edges)

The Effect of Color

Image 1

Image 1: There are three basic colors: Red, Blue, Yellow. These three primary colors are then blended together to create all other colors (you learned this way back in Kindergarten and First Grade). The hues that come from the predominately Red and Blue combinations, are considered “cool” colors. Those from Red and Yellow are considered Warm. It is important to know which color families look the best on you. I look ill or faded out when I try to wear warm colors but cool colors are very flattering on me. Watch out for Reds. You may think a red is a red is a red. But “lipstick red” (a favorite name designers use) can be neutral, cool, or warm. I look stunning in cool reds. Warm reds are a disaster on me.

Image 2

Image 2: The lightness and darkness of a color–based on whether they are mixed with white or black–is called values. The brightness or dullness of a color describe their intensity.

Image 3: Figure flattery is impacted by colors. When I “restored” my hair (on a monthly basis) to the toehead color of my childhood, jewel-tones and black created a flattering contrast to my white hair. Now that I am returning to my more natural shade of dark blonde, the black colors don’t seem as flattering. I’m going to have to let go of my East Coast Uniform (black from head to toe).

That said, because I am shorter and rounder, I have to be careful to make sure that I don’t choose color combinations that will visually cut me in half.

Image 3

Wardrobe Needs

Image #4 shows that we can still be casual and stylish when we are at home:

Image #4: At Home Outfit

Image #5: Shows a simple dress, suit, skirt, jacket, and blouse that can be mixed and matched to form the foundation of an “on the job” wardrobe.

Image #5: On the Job Wardrobe

Image #6: An example of a dress to wear to school or informal gatherings (in the early 1960s). Of course, this is where I go into my rant that these days young women are wearing clothes more appropriate for clubbing and snaring a partner than for wearing to school. But then, I went to a school that had strict dress codes and it carried on with me through college. In grad school, I was already a teacher, so of course I dressed professionally.

Image #6: What to Wear to School

Image #7: I love this image because of the plaid pants for casual wear. Now, I don’t remember owning plaid slacks but I did at one time own a pair of yellow jeans with bright blue flowers on them and a pair of striped jeans. Hey, it was the late 60′s and my grandmother bought them for me.

Image #7: Sportswear or Casual Wear

Image #8: While wearing slacks and shorts are no longer taboo when shopping in a downtown department store (if you can find one, anymore, that is), if you want better customer service when you shop, I encourage you to “dress” for shopping. And don’t forget to wear your good undergarments–the same ones you plan on wearing with whatever you are buying. It makes a difference in fit.

Image #8: For Shopping

Image #9: Please! For my sake! Don’t wear your pajamas while traveling (well, of course you can when you are in bed). Just like shopping, you will be treated a whole lot better if you are comfortable yet chic. We take a lot of road trips and I usually wear a comfortable dress and low-heeled shoes or flats. It isn’t hard. It isn’t rocket science. But you’ll be amazed by the difference (and you won’t be grumpy from having your jeans cut into you all day).

Image #9: For Travelling

Image #10 If you want to pretend that you are a “lady who lunches,” wear dressmaker suits, simple dresses, such as a sheath, a shirtwaist or a coat dress. Think Jackie O. Thank goodness we have a First Lady who is bringing these items back into style!

Image #10: For Club Activities

Images 11 & 12: The formality of your evening clothes will depend upon where you live and the type of function you are attending. A Red Carpet walk for the opening of a movie is very different than a Red Carpet walk for the Oscars. We will be attending a gala opening for a big art exhibit my husband is in at the end of the month. Since we live in Los Angeles and we are talking about artists, the exhibit information had to be explicit in stating that this was a fancy event and business/cocktail dress attire was expected. I’m sure that before they started doing this that the rich people showed up in shorts and Hawaiian shirts (Hollywood types do that all the time).

Image #11 Evening Parties

Image #12: Formal Evening Party

Podcast: Tricks with Space to Create Flattering Illusions

Dr. Julie-Ann — Fri, 27 Mar 2009 01:46:48 +0000

After a hectic week on one hand but relaxing on the other hand kind of week, I didn’t get any sewing done last weekend. I just plain old forgot that My Husband actually wanted to play on his birthday instead of just hanging out at home. Ah, well. Life goes on, eh?

Most of the podcast is continuing our reading on making over our image. Today’s topic is using space, texture, prints, and fabric to create flattering illusions. Of course, I interject my thoughts as we go along!

Click here to listen via direct download

Click here to listen via iTunes

Here are the illustrations from the readings:

Tricks with Space

Tricks With Space Image 1

Notice how the horizontal line cuts her in half while the vertical line elongates her figure.

Tricks with Space Image 2

The narrowly spaced buttons force the eye to move up (as if on a train track) while the widely spaced buttons force our eyes back and forth.

Vertical versus Horizontal Lines

Both squares have the same number of lines and the distance between the lines are equal.

Vertical Illusions

Vertical Illusions Image 1

A self-tie sash in a matching color will help move the eye up and down rather than side to side.

Vertical Illusions Image 2

The belt cuts the figure in half while the prince-lines move the eyes upward so that the figure “reads” thinner.

Horizontal Illusions

Bouffant or Bell-Shaped Skirt

Women with “hip fluff” should avoid the bell-shaped skirt.

Broadening the Face

Tricks with Stripes

When choosing stripes, be careful to avoid those that appear “heavy” and “weighty.”

Tricks with Prints

Choose prints that are proportionate to your figure. Slender women can get away with big dots and motifs.

Tricks with Borders

When using a border, make sure that you create the illusion of moving upward. Otherwise it adds the illusion of width.

The Effects of Fabric

Fabric Texture

The downside of choosing fabric online is that you can’t test out the drape of the fabric to determine whether it is a good match with your pattern or not.

Stiff or Clinging Fabrics

This illustration is a good example of one of the goofs I made in choosing fabrics. The dress pattern (I think it was by Style before they were absorbed by Simplicity) required a drapy fabric but I bought some green polyester that made it stand out from the waist. It had NO movement at all and the one time I wore it, I felt like Glenda the Good Witch. Come to think of it, that fabric was dreadful and I don’t know why I bought it in the first place. Drape of a fabric makes all the difference in the world!

Podcast: Tricks with Lines

Dr. Julie-Ann — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 21:19:39 +0000

For some reason I thought I had already posted this! Sorry about that!

I talk about why it has been so long since my last podcast, my adventures with My Honey’s cowboy shirt, and continue with the series from the McCall’s sewing book.

By the way, I didn’t mention it in my podcast, but I’ve joined Twitter (and I’m trying to learn how to use it) http://twitter.com/drjulieann and my Facebook handle is Julie-Ann Mears McFann (so “Friend” me, but tell me that you are a Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet groupie so I know you aren’t some spamming weirdo).

Listen via Direct Download

Listen via iTunes

Here is the photo of me making a copy of the collar band:

Pinning Around the Edges to Make a New Pattern Piece

As you can see, the shirt is “well worn” and enjoyed!

Tricks with Lines drawings:

Tricks With Lines Image 2:

Tricks with Lines #3:

In looking at these drawings, it is obvious that the “Y” shape would be the most flattering for me because the “V” at the top of the “Y” will diffuse the impact of my full bust.

What about you? Which line would be best on you?

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions-Part 4

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 01:28:20 +0000

Wait! There’s more! ABC’s official red carpet show has just started and Tim Gunn is interviewing people with Robin Roberts. This is definately a definately edited version of the show. I’m not sure I can keep up.

Sarah Jessica Parker is wearing Dior Haute Couture. I am a fan of The New Look but JSP’s dress just looks poofy. If it had been closer to The New Look, it probably would have worked. I know a lot of people think of SJP as a style icon but she and I have different tastes, apparently. I guess this dress would be in the “almost worked” category. As a sewist, it’s nice to know that even Dior Haute Couture can have misses sometimes.

Viola Davis’s gold (copper?) lame’ dress showcases her beautiful figure and is glamorous without being too showy. It seems to fit her personality.

Tim Gunn just interviewed Anne Hathoway. She just might officially be my new favorite actress. She is standing there in a drop-dead gorgeous gown talking to TIM GUNN and she seems so natural and real. She is wearing the gown. The gown is not wearing her.

Tim Gunn is interviewing Penelope Cruz wearing a vintage gown that she first saw 8 years ago. It evokes princess without being overwhelming. The bodice is fitted and then the skirt is full but not too full.

Tim Gunn is interviewing Marisa Tomei and called the dress ravishing. Apparently, it arrived this morning. That’s cutting it a bit close, I’d say. What would she have worn if it hadn’t arrived? It is Versace.

Ah, now this show is wrapping up, too. While the Academy Awards show is on, I will be attending to My Honey’s fashion by cutting out his shirt.

What do you think? Do you agree with my assessments?

Blogging the Academy Awards Fashions–Part 3

Dr. Julie-Ann — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 00:57:13 +0000

I just caught a glimpse of Natalie Portman and it is another winner. She is not weighed down with glitter. The bodice is fitted but then the dress just flows out from her waist. She looks young, fresh, and comfortable.

I also caught a glimpse of Queen Latifah’s dress. Hopefully I’ll get another look. But my first reaction was “oh dear.”

Sophia Loren is in a fish-tail dress with tiers at the bottom!

Queen Latifah is being interviewed right now and my impression of her dress has not changed (even though it is blue). It is kind of disappointing because she usually has good fashion sense. But this dress is “too much.” It has a huge train that seems cumbersome.

Randolph Duke just said the Marisa Tomei looks like she is wearing too many “napkins” because of her ballgown with too much train and too many pleats.

Anne Hathaway is channeling Audrey Hepburn. Simple, elegant, bias cut gown. She has really grown up to be a new fashion icon. She looks very comfortable and makes it look so easy.

Meryl Steep is showing that mature women can be glamorous, too.

I only got a glimpse of Kate Winslet…I need more, please.

The show is going to start in about 15 minutes so everything is being pushed up to a frantic pace. Hollywood royalty shows up at the last and, before going to commercial, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie stopped at the first checkpoint (I don’t know if it is before or after the security tent).

Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie being interviewed now. She is is understated in a black Grecian-style dress.

Ah, Kate Winslet is being interviewed now. I don’t care for the neckline/off one shoulder (it was like they couldn’t decide) but other than that I love the fabric and the the flattering cut of the dress. I think it is charcoal colored, but I couldn’t tell for sure.

Well, the pre-Oscar show is over, so I’ll send this off. I hope you had fun reading!