What seems like eons ago now, there was a “back to basics” movement in the schools that coincided with the “Home Ec classes lead to subjugation of women” movement.  And so, school boards in their infinite wisdom, eliminated any courses that didn’t relate to reading, writing, and arithmetic.  In their . . . → Read More: The People Who Took Sewing Out of Schools Are Idiots]]>

Yes, this is a rant…

What seems like eons ago now, there was a “back to basics” movement in the schools that coincided with the “Home Ec classes lead to subjugation of women” movement.  And so, school boards in their infinite wisdom, eliminated any courses that didn’t relate to reading, writing, and arithmetic.  In their minds, sewing didn’t fit the academic criteria.  But they were wrong.  Very wrong.

Here are some things that students gain in the process of learning how to sew:

• Math skills–adding, subtracting, measurement, geometry, and algebra
• Reading for comprehension skills
• Spacial development
• Eye-hand coordination and fine motor development
• Problem-solving
• Creativity
• Perseverance
• Ability to focus on the task at hand
• Aesthetic development
• Critical analysis
• Money management
• Time management
• Authentic confidence in their abilities (not that fake positive stuff)
• Authentic learning
• (And…they will no longer be stuck buying non-flattering ready-to-wear clothing)

Most of these things can’t be measured on a paper-pencil standardized test.  But, I tell you what, all of these things will help them be successful in almost all areas of their lives.

Rant over….for now.

What skills did I forget to include?

I received my August/September issue of Threads Magazine the other day and was not disappointed this time.  You see, I was a longtime Threads reader and would devour every issue.  I learned how to improve my sewing skills and was encouraged to try new-to-me techniques.  The articles about vintage garments inspired me look . . . → Read More: Stronger Threads]]>

Dear Friends,

I received my August/September issue of Threads Magazine the other day and was not disappointed this time.  You see, I was a longtime Threads reader and would devour every issue.  I learned how to improve my sewing skills and was encouraged to try new-to-me techniques.  The articles about vintage garments inspired me look at construction in a whole new way.  None of the other sewing magazines held a candle to Threads.  It was well worth the subscription price.

And then it wasn’t. A new editorial team came on board that didn’t seem to understand the soul of Threads.  Issue after issue disappointed me until I finally canceled my subscription.  I couldn’t justify the subscription price.

I started hearing rumblings about a year or so ago that Threads had found itself again.  I picked up an issue here and there and then finally resubscribed.  I haven’t been disappointed since.  Although I don’t devour every issue like I used to, it is worth the subscription price again*.

My favorite part? The photos on the back covers from the Western Costume Company of vintage costumes and the accompanying article showing how the costume designer and seamstress created the garment.  Talk about Old Hollywood glamor!

Beginning sewists may feel a bit overwhelmed by Threads at first but the articles will give them something to aspire to sew.  And every issue has a “Fundamentals” section that teaches all of us how to do the, well, fundamentals the correct way.

It is nice to be able to recommend Threads Magazine to sewers again!

Happy Sewing!

Dr. Julie-Ann

*Members of the American Sewing Guild get a discounted rate on their subscription.

Dear Friends,

My older sister, June, a fiber artist and minister, has begun writing a blog about the intersection between faith and creativity.  The other day she wrote about first learning how to sew and how her fiber art is an expression of her soul.

Her post resonated deeply with . . . → Read More: The Call of the Cloth]]>

Toddler(!) Alice Fondles Fabric

Dear Friends,

My older sister, June, a fiber artist and minister, has begun writing a blog about the intersection between faith and creativity.  The other day she wrote about first learning how to sew and how her fiber art is an expression of her soul.

Her post resonated deeply with me, partly because I know all of the players in the story and partly because my sewing is an expression of my soul, even when I’m sewing something very utilitarian.

I do not consider myself a fiber artist.  Yet studying and earning my custom clothing certificate has felt like a great unleashing of my creativity and spirit, even as I fought against the parameters of my assignments, lack of technical ability, and insecurities.  Knowing how to sew opens up a secret world with amazing vistas stretching across the horizon.

I do not remember exactly the first time I picked up a needle, thread, and cloth.  I do remember witnessing a secret ritual between our great-grandmother and June.  Grandma Daisy had called June into her bedroom and I tagged along because that is what little sisters do.  Grandma Daisy took a needle and thread out of her pincushion that was resting on top of her tall dresser and showed my sister a hand stitch using a swatch of fabric.  The lesson was over in 3-4 minutes.  But I wanted to be a part of this secret society that could make magic out of needle, thread, and cloth.

My recollection is that the first real garment that I made was the traditional flared skirt made in 7th grade home economics class.  Our second project was to make a stuffed cat doll (It looked like a fat figure 8 and we were supposed to embroider the face and tail onto it.  I didn’t.  I thought it was a stupid assignment and I earned a C on it).

After my home ec sewing class, our grandmother and great-grandmother helped me fine-tune my sewing skills.  As I grew older, I watched my sister make her clothes and I wanted to be just like her.  As adults, she moved away from clothing and became a fiber artist and I continued learning about garment construction with the culmination of earning my custom clothing certificate last month.

Even though we took different paths, the call of the cloth as the expression of our souls is deep within us.  It is a bond that we share.  It needs no words.  We understand.

Being a custom clothing person in a “fashion industry” oriented design program can feel lonely at times.  Even though I’m surrounded by highly creative people, not all of them share my enthusiasm for sewing.  I know I’m biased, but I think everyone should learn how to sew.  And here’s why:

1.  You never . . . → Read More: Five Reasons (Plus One) Why You Should Learn How to Sew]]>

Dear Friends,

Being a custom clothing person in a “fashion industry” oriented design program can feel lonely at times.  Even though I’m surrounded by highly creative people, not all of them share my enthusiasm for sewing.  I know I’m biased, but I think everyone should learn how to sew.  And here’s why:

1.  You never have to worry about that crazy and arbitrary sizing system again.

2.  Your clothes are made to measure and hang beautifully on you (and actually fit…everywhere).

3.  Outrageously priced designer labels?  Phht! All of your clothes are one-off, not off the rack.

4.  You’ll never have to suffer the humiliation of someone else wearing the exact same outfit as you ever again (unless you are a bridesmaid…and then that’s a whole different story…).

5.  And finally, there is a certain satisfaction that arises when people find out that you made your garment and are in awe of your talent.

Bonus Reason: Sewing is a whole lot better for you than sitting on the couch watching Matlock reruns and eating chemically flavored tortilla chips.  Just saying…

What reason would you add to the list?

Happy sewing!

Dr. Julie-Ann

A couple of weeks ago, I commented on the Modern Retro Woman blog that I look like this in my imagination (only blonde…):

Somehow, I get the feeling that the woman in the picture would never run around a sewing lab waving a manilla paper pattern for a pleat detail over her . . . → Read More: Running With Patterns]]>

Dear Friends,

A couple of weeks ago, I commented on the Modern Retro Woman blog that I look like this in my imagination (only blonde…):

Somehow, I get the feeling that the woman in the picture would never run around a sewing lab waving a manilla paper pattern for a pleat detail over her head trying to convince the Intro to Fashion Design students to use the pleat detail on their final projects like I did in class today.

I am almost done with my custom clothing certificate and I imagine making all sorts of glamorous vintage-inspired garments but I wonder…would I have to give up my sense of playfulness if I start wearing all sorts of glamorous vintage-inspired garments?

A week ago, I had grand visions of spending my spring break just sewing up a storm.  While my vision didn’t come to fruition, I have felt very creative nonetheless.  And here are a few things that have inspired me this past week:

Edith Head: The Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood’s Greatest Costume Designer

This was driving me crazy:

I had a huge and rather disorganized pile of sewing-related stuff on my sewing machine.  Any time I wanted to use the machine, I had to move it out of the way.  I hate to admit it, but for several days last week, the pile lived on . . . → Read More: This Was Driving Me Crazy]]>

Dear Friends,

This was driving me crazy:

I had a huge and rather disorganized pile of sewing-related stuff on my sewing machine.  Any time I wanted to use the machine, I had to move it out of the way.  I hate to admit it, but for several days last week, the pile lived on the floor next to the window so that I could get my sewing homework done.

What was in the pile, you ask?  Flannel and a pattern left over from my mother’s pajamas, half of a bolt of muslin without the cardboard holder thing, several pieces of fabric and patterns to make adorable dresses for Baby Alice, a couple of “on the docket” inspiration patterns to make garments for me and various notions.  Oh, yes…and of course The Mister’s bathrobe parts.  Is it any wonder that I put off my daily sewing when having to deal that stuff?  It was sapping my mental energy and creativity.

Now, I know that there are those that thrive in having lots of stuff around them.  I have classmates whose work areas look like their sewing kits exploded all over the table and they are happily working away.  Most of the time, my husband’s studio is filled with sketches, drawings, and photographs tacked to all of the walls.  So, I know it is possible.  I’m just not one of those people.  Maybe because I have such a hard time focusing as I get older (and there are so many things to distract me from what I need to do), I detest clutter and disorder.

I’ve instituted a “one project at a time” on my sewing machine plan for myself.  I hung Alice’s fabric up in the closet and moved Mom’s fabric to the landing pad to be taken to the basement when one of us goes down there next (we have to go outside and down our slope to get to it…not onerous but I sure miss the convenience of my East Coast and Midwest basements!).  I’ve put the extra patterns back into the pattern drawer.  The notions have been safely stored in my sewing chest or the sewing cabinet.  The only thing left is my current project.

I feel like I have some breathing room for creativity again…

How about you?  Do you thrive in “creative clutter” or are you like me and prefer an orderly work environment in order to feel creative?

Dear Friends,

I can’t say that taking the intermediate and advanced sewing classes during the same semester completely burned me out, but, like a synthetic fabric after a burn test, it left me a bit beady around the edges.

I’ve only sewn one thing since I turned in my last . . . → Read More: Beady Around The Edges]]>

Image courtesy of http://flyingsquirrelconsortium.com

Dear Friends,

I can’t say that taking the intermediate and advanced sewing classes during the same semester completely burned me out, but, like a synthetic fabric after a burn test, it left me a bit beady around the edges.

I’ve only sewn one thing since I turned in my last assignment: A fun tote bag for my older sister using Dick and Jane fabric.  This was part of her Christmas gift and I wanted to give it to her while she and her husband were out here for the holidays.

Last Sunday, I got a whiff of inspiration and decided to ease back into sewing by making some everyday napkins using some Metro Cafe fabric I bought at the beginning of the semester.  My older sister (the recipient of the tote bag) had made a bib for Baby Alice out of the fabric and I liked the fabric so much that I bought a couple of yards of it for myself.  I got as far as cutting the napkins out and even made a template for folding the edges over so that I could hem them but no further.

So…that is where I stand (or sit) at the moment.  On the docket is a bathrobe for The Mister and I still haven’t finished my mother’s pajamas that I started last year.

That said, take advantage of the pattern sales that are running right now to buy a “fit pattern.”  Starting February 1st, we will be having a fit pattern sew along so that we can make 2011 “The Year of the Perfect Fit.”

What have you been up to?  I’m looking forward to hearing from you!

Julie-Ann

Our class was able to negotiate a discount . . . → Read More: Clap On, Clap Off…The Point Presser!]]>

Buying all of the sewing tools we need to construct quality garments can quickly become expensive.  For my advanced sewing/tailoring class, I discovered I was woefully deficient in the tool department and needed to buy a seam roll, tailor’s ham, and a clapper/point presser, among other things.

Our class was able to negotiate a discount with a supplier for the seam roll and tailor’s ham.

Image courtesy of thesewingplace.com

Tailor's Ham

But, we didn’t negotiate a discount on the clapper/point presser because the sewing lab has about four or five of them that we could use….when we are at school.  I needed one for home. The point presser part at the top is used for pressing out points (hence the name) such as collars and lapels.  It helps us get into tight spaces for a nice clean pressing.  The clapper, often seen without the presser part, is a rounded block of hardwood (it needs to be hardwood…the soft woods such as pine ooze their sap) that enables us to press parts of the garment without needing to use more heat than necessary.  You apply steam to the area with the iron, remove the iron and then press down on the area with the clapper until everything cools down.

Image Courtesy of SewWow.com

I searched the internet and discovered that it would cost me about $30-40 + shipping for one of these gizmos.  I told The Mister that I needed a clapper/point presser and he swore I was making up the name.  I promised him that I wasn’t and showed him a picture of one.

And then I batted my eyelashes and promised him a steak dinner if he would make one for me.

He did (he’s such a sucker for a steak dinner…although I’d like to think the batting eyelashes helped, too).

The Garret McFann Custom Made Clapper/Point Presser

I love it!  Especially the bolts in the middle because they remind me of his artwork.

The Hitching Post by Garret McFann (Image courtesy of McFannArtwork.com)

That’s a sculpture, not a painting, by the way.

If you want to make your own tools, Fiber Images offers a pattern for a reasonable price that includes a tailor ham, wooden tailor ham holder, tailor seam roll, cuff roll, lapel/collar roll, wooden padded sleeve board (2 sizes), pressing mitt, pattern weights, two pressing cloths, and a wooden point presser/clapper.  I haven’t done business with them, so I can’t vouch for them, but they were mentioned in Sew News magazine.

One of the major things I learned this semester is that having the right tools really does make a difference in how the garment turns out.  I wish I had learned this years ago (instead of being stubborn and trying to “make do”).