Kate, the stewardess turned spy, always seems to be wearing dresses/costumes that I would want in my own collection:

Image . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: I Spy a Dress]]>

The storytelling on the ABC series Pan Am isn’t the most inspired but there is usually at least one dress per episode that I want to replicate.  Last Sunday’s Romance Languages was no exception.

Kate, the stewardess turned spy, always seems to be wearing dresses/costumes that I would want in my own collection:

Image courtesy of Pan Am Facebook page

Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to find a straight-on shot of the dress but this shot does provide several clues:

Image courtesy of ABC

To replicate the dress:

• Use a square neckline sheath dress pattern
• Slash a “V” from the square neckline to below the bust
• Add a rectangle shaped collar that ends about two inches from the neckline corner
• Tricky part: Create an insert that is sewn into the V and around the corner of the square neckline.  Getting the point and the opposing corner sewn neatly will take some time.  Hand baste it in first so you don’t have to worry about the pins.
• Add a bow where the open part of the V neckline ends.

One thing I like about this second photo is that the bust dart is clearly visible.  The costume seamstress definitely needs to do a “full bust adjustment” for Kelli Garner who plays the Kate character.  The dart points directly to Miss Garner’s bust apex and you can see that the dart legs were quite open before being sewn to wrap around Miss Garner’s bustline in a flattering way.  The dress is very fitted but she doesn’t look like a sausage in it.

All of the detailing above the bustline helps move the eyes upward instead of getting stuck at the belt and the obvious bustline.

Kudos to the costuming department!

While I was working on my custom clothing certificate, . . . → Read More: Color Palette Resource]]>

One of the things I’ve noticed in myself and others is the haphazard way we go about buying or making clothes.  We buy something because we like it or we make something that looks interesting.  And then we wonder why nothing in our closets work together!

While I was working on my custom clothing certificate, I learned about creating color palettes for a “collection” (design speak for a mini wardrobe).  The main idea is that these palettes help set a mood for the collection and ensure that the garments work with instead of against each other.

As I look through my fabric stash, I have a lot of blues in various hues, blacks in various densities, and lots of whites from cream to pure white.  It is just a mishmash of fabrics that I bought (usually on impulse) because I liked them.

During our last Only Own Beautiful Clothes in 2012 virtual retreat (click here for February’s retreat and here for March’s retreat–the links will take you to my other blog), Brandi found a great color palette resource online.

Design Seeds posts several palettes every day.  Each palette is inspired by a photo or something in nature.  There are literally hundreds of palettes from which to choose.

Since I love blues (and they love me), I toyed with several palettes for my “Ladies Who Lunch” wardrobe collection.

Peacock:

Glittered Blues:

After discussing the options with The Mister, I decided to go with the Thistled Blues palette for spring/summer:

For today’s inspiration, we have a 1940s white pique garden party dress being offered by Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com.  If you look at the . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Soutache Dresses Up]]>

One of the things I learned in design school is that there really are a limited number of silhouettes in fashion and the details are what set designers apart.

For today’s inspiration, we have a 1940s white pique garden party dress being offered by Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com.  If you look at the silhouette, it is simply a princess seamed dress that flares out from the waist.  What sets it apart and makes us lust after it is the narrow soutache braid detail.  Even though this dress is easy to replicate, it will take time to lay out the detail.  I recommend sewing it by hand instead of by machine.  Believe it or not, it will take longer by machine than by hand.

1940s Garden Party Dress; Image courtesy of Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com (Click on image to go to site/see it larger)

Detail of the 1940s Dress; Image courtesy of Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com

Start with a pattern similar to this modern McCalls pattern:

McCalls 3129

You may need to adjust the pattern so that it fits a little closer to your body than the modern patterns that are notorious for having way too much ease.  Move the zipper from the back to the side.

If you notice on the original, the seamstress just laid the braiding down, then made a loop and then more of a straight line, another loop, etc.  She basically followed the seams for the side fronts, sides, and side back details.  She then filled in the center front and center back detail.

And that’s all there is to it!

If you decide to tackle this project, share your finished garment with us, please!

The green dress in this illustration resolves that problem by using inverted box pleats.  The pleats . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: A 1950s Dress With No Apparent Opening]]>

If you’ve been following the Clothes Make Magic series on my Modern Retro Woman blog, you know that the 1950s iconic full skirt that gathers at the waist is not the best silhouette choice for women with “prominent” hips.

The green dress in this illustration resolves that problem by using inverted box pleats.  The pleats are stitched down to the lower hip area providing a smooth line but then the pleats release to create the illusion of full skirted-ness.

As I continued to examine this dress, it occurred to me that there is no apparent way this woman can get in and out of the dress.  My original thought was that there was a zipper along the left seam because that was common practice in the 1950s.  But then I realized that there aren’t any side seams…at least according to the illustration.   I’m going to go with assumption that the illustrator took some license and that there are, indeed, some side seams. But then, how did she get the neckline over her head?  And back zippers don’t usually go through this type of collar.  See the problems?

As for the dress on the right, I love the button opening on the bodice but the illustration makes it look like the skirt was poorly made and that is why it is pulling to the right (and, we won’t even ask what she is doing with her right hand out in public…).

What do you all think?

Image courtesy of April Mo on Flickr.com

If . . . → Read More: Drafting Skirt Pattern Sew Along Lesson 4: Checking the Fit and Fixing Problems]]>

In today’s lesson, I show you how to check your pattern to make sure everything fits correctly using your muslin/practice skirt that you made in Lesson 3.  I also show you how to make some basic changes to the pattern. (Here are the links for  Lesson 2 and  Lesson 1 if you missed them)

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them either in the comment section below or on the Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Facebook page.

Click here if the player is not working for you

What I love about vintage sheath dresses is that they had a . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Blue Suit]]>

If you are like me, you look better in a sheath type dress suit rather than a skirt suit (and pant suits look horrific on me…I’m always in awe of those women who can actually pull it off without looking dumpy or matronly).

What I love about vintage sheath dresses is that they had a design element so that they weren’t plain like today’s basic (and almost always sleeveless) dresses are.  I love the tab detail at the neckline of today’s inspiration that is repeated at the hem.  The shirt-style jacket looks sophisticated without trying too hard.

How this dress could be replicated: Take a basic princess seam sheath pattern.  Redirect the seam to the mid-shoulder, if you need to. Trace it so that you have a copy that you can cut up.  Cut the top and bottom off of the center front to create the tabs (don’t forget to add overlap and seam allowances!).  Tape the  tab pattern pieces to the side front pieces.  I’d sew the tab pieces to the center front (after applying a facing to finish the edges) and then attach the center front to the side front pieces.  And, there you have it!

Image courtesy of April Mo on Flickr.com

History

Lyocell, also known by its trade name Tencel, was developed to try and . . . → Read More: Rayon and Lyocell: Separated At Birth]]>

In our last textile lessons, I’ve been discussing the explosive history of rayon and what we need to know about sewing with rayon.  Today we will discuss lyocell, which the United States Federal Trade Commission classifies as a subcategory of rayon.

History

Lyocell, also known by its trade name Tencel, was developed to try and counteract the negative environmental impact of rayon.  In fact, when it was first introduced in the early 1990s, it was marketed as a type of rayon.  Even though the US Federal Trade Commission classifies it as a subcategory of rayon, lyocell’s unique characteristics earned it its own generic classification.

Production and Structure of Lyocell

The only part I really understand is that lyocell is a cellulose fiber like rayon.  Then everything gets all chemically and stuff.  The cellulose is dissolved in amine oxide which is a chemical with low toxicity and low skin irritation.  It also dissolves the cellulose pulp without changing the nature of the cellulose.  Then there is more stuff I don’t understand because it’s been 30 years since I took chemistry.  Apparently, lyocell doesn’t collapse on itself like rayon does because it has a more rounded cross section and is smoother.  Finally, “the polymer chain length is longer than that of rayon, but not as long as that of cotton.  drawing the fibers after spinning increases the orientation and crystallinity and makes lyocell more durable” (Textiles, 10th Ed., by Sara J. Kadolph).

Translation into English would be greatly appreciated by someone who knows what all that means.

I think the gist of all that is that it is good stuff.  And that is why it is usually about twice as expensive as rayon.

Lyocell fiber on the left, cotton fiber on the right

Aesthetics:

• Very adaptable to end use.  The luster, length, and diameter of the fiber can be varied according to the end use.
• Can be used by itself or blended with natural or manufactured fiber.
• Offers the unusual combination of strength, opacity, and absorbancy

Durability:

• Performs similarly to cotton
• It is the strongest of the cellulose fibers
• Unlike rayon, it has high strength when wet
• Produces comfortable and long lasting clothing and furnishings
• But, it has a tendency to split lengthwise (fibrillate) and produce a fuzzy, hairy texture when rubbed which causes problems if the fabric is supposed to be smooth

Comfort:

• Soft, smooth fiber that makes comfortable clothing
• Problems related to static electricity are low
• Has high level of absorbancy
• Thermal retention is poor–it won’t keep you warm
  

  Image courtesy of SparklingScraps on Flickr.com

Appearance Retention:

• Has moderate resiliency
• Wrinkles but not as badly as rayon
• Shrinks but doesn’t progressively shrink like rayon
• The tendency to fibrillate causes problems with pilling and fuzziness and other surface changes.

Care:

• Can be machine washed on a gentle cycle or dry cleaned.
• Dark or intensely colored fabrics should be dry cleaned to avoid changes to the hand and unacceptable color distortion
• Sensitive to acids
• Resistant to most organic solvents
• Susceptible to damage by mildew and insects

Uses:

• Professional business wear
• Leotards
• Hosier
• Casual wear
• Bedding
• Upholstery
• Window treatment fabrics
• Conveyer belts
• In fibrillated form: filters, specialty papers, medical dressings

Generally speaking, lyocell is considered an environmentally friendly fiber.  The wood pulp is harvested from tree farms and the solvent is recycled efficiently.  Theoretically, lyocell is biodegradable.  However, it is most often disposed of in landfills where it doesn’t have the ability to degrade.   That said, most fiber is not eco-friendly–even organics use up a lot of water in the process.  Compared to other fibers, you can use lyocell without feeling guilty.

What is your experience with lyocell or Tencel?

In today’s lesson, I show you how to draft a basic skirt sloper and pattern.  You will need the measurements you took in Lesson 2.  You can find the information about supplies you will need in Lesson 1.

I created a free step-by-step 18 page handout, with illustrations, that you will be able . . . → Read More: Drafting Skirt Pattern Sew Along Lesson 3: Drafting the Pattern (w/video)]]>

Dear Friends,

In today’s lesson, I show you how to draft a basic skirt sloper and pattern.  You will need the measurements you took in Lesson 2.  You can find the information about supplies you will need in Lesson 1.

I created a free step-by-step 18 page handout, with illustrations, that you will be able to use to create your pattern.

Click here to download the (free) Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Skirt Pattern Drafting Guide

But that’s not all!  I also created a video tutorial that follows that handout and shows you how I go about making a skirt pattern.  The Mister was my camera man for this lesson.  The tutorial is in four videos because You Tube puts a time limit on video uploads (Update: I just figured out how to make the time limit rule disappear and in the future I won’t have to worry about a video only being 15 minutes long).

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them either in the comment section below or on the Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Facebook page.

Part 1:

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

In my last Textile Tuesday lesson, I shared the explosive history of artificial silk, commonly referred to today as either rayon or the trade name Modal.  Today, we’re going to look at what we need to know about sewing with rayon so that we can take advantage of its benefits while avoiding its . . . → Read More: Sewing With Rayon: What We Need to Know]]>

Dear Friends,

In my last Textile Tuesday lesson, I shared the explosive history of artificial silk, commonly referred to today as either rayon or the trade name Modal.  Today, we’re going to look at what we need to know about sewing with rayon so that we can take advantage of its benefits while avoiding its “growth edges” (a phrase I heard during a board of directors for an academic organization when the president of the organization didn’t want to use the term “negative attributes”).

"Rayon Puts Fashion On Its Best Behavior," 1954; Image courtesy of Jordan Smith on Flickr

Aesthetics:

• The luster (brightness), length, and diameter of rayon fibers can be controlled so that it mimics natural fibers such as cotton, flax, wool, and silk.  This is especially useful when it is used as part of a blended fabric.

• Cupra rayon (manufactured as Bemberg) is the most silk like rayon.

Durability

• Rayon is a weak fiber.  It loses about 50% of its strength when it gets wet and doesn’t withstand abrasion  very well (every day rubbing that can result in pilling).

• It has the lowest elastic recover of any fiber which means that if it gets stretched out (like at the elbows of a blouse or the knees of slacks), it will not go back to its original shape

• In addition to being stretched out, rayon shrinks with each successful washing unless it is dry cleaned.  So, it really could  be the pants and not the 15 gallons of chocolate chip cookie dough ice cream you ate while watching An Affair to Remember with Cary Grant and Deborah Kerr.
  

  Courtlauds Rayon Ad, 1938; Image courtesy of Charlotte Dymock on Flickr.

Comfort

• We love rayon because it is soft and smooth

• Because it is absorbent, rayon does not suffer from static cling

• It has low thermal retention (how well it retains heat) so it an ideal fiber for warmer weather

Care

• Resist the urge to run it through your washer’s gentle cycle.  Rayon and water just don’t get along very well.

• Rayon often has sizing and other chemicals added to the fiber during the manufacturing process to allow it to be dyed and drape a certain way.  When these come in contact with water, they can leave spots or streaks.

• Because manufacturers assume you will be dry cleaning the fabric, the dyes they use may not be colorfast if you toss your fabric in the washing machine (No need to ask me how I learned this lesson…)

• It seems that silverfish and mildew love rayon so make sure you keep the fish away and avoid storing your fabric and garments in damp or moist areas such as a basement.

• Fortunately, though, you don’t have to worry about sun damage.  Rayon doesn’t disintegrate from the sunlight like other fibers.
  

  Rayon fabrics from Sears Catalog, 1925; Image courtesy of Charlotte Dymock on Flickr

Environmental Impact

• Rayon is made from wood pulp.  The environmental impact is high if the trees are harvested from old growth forests instead of from tree farms.

• The processing uses large quantities of acid and other chemicals that may contribute to air and water pollution if not disposed of or recycled properly.  Bemberg rayon is no longer manufactured in the United States because producers could not meet air and water quality requirements.

• Rayon must be dry cleaned which may produce hazards depending upon the process used.

Factoid:  Rayon is what makes diapers and feminine hygiene so absorbent.

I love lining my garments with Bemberg rayon because I love the feel of it against my skin (I’m in Los Angeles and apparently wearing stockings is against the law) and because I don’t have to deal with static cling when I do wear stockings.

…Plus I love the swishy sound it makes…

What about you?  What is your experience sewing with rayon?

Happy sewing!

Dr. Julie-Ann