For today’s inspiration, we have a 1940s white pique garden party dress being offered by Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com.  If you look at the . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Soutache Dresses Up]]>

One of the things I learned in design school is that there really are a limited number of silhouettes in fashion and the details are what set designers apart.

For today’s inspiration, we have a 1940s white pique garden party dress being offered by Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com.  If you look at the silhouette, it is simply a princess seamed dress that flares out from the waist.  What sets it apart and makes us lust after it is the narrow soutache braid detail.  Even though this dress is easy to replicate, it will take time to lay out the detail.  I recommend sewing it by hand instead of by machine.  Believe it or not, it will take longer by machine than by hand.

1940s Garden Party Dress; Image courtesy of Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com (Click on image to go to site/see it larger)

Detail of the 1940s Dress; Image courtesy of Vintage Frocks of Fancy on Etsy.com

Start with a pattern similar to this modern McCalls pattern:

McCalls 3129

You may need to adjust the pattern so that it fits a little closer to your body than the modern patterns that are notorious for having way too much ease.  Move the zipper from the back to the side.

If you notice on the original, the seamstress just laid the braiding down, then made a loop and then more of a straight line, another loop, etc.  She basically followed the seams for the side fronts, sides, and side back details.  She then filled in the center front and center back detail.

And that’s all there is to it!

If you decide to tackle this project, share your finished garment with us, please!

Subscription feed for other players: . . . → Read More: Podcast: Is That Fabric Right For The Job?]]>

In this podcast, I we continue our lessons from the Singer Sewing Book, published in 1949.  Today’s topic is the first lesson in making sure you are using the right fabric for your project.

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Images:

Three Common Types of Weaves

Fabric Grain:

This was my textile identification assignment when I was in design school. I had to show that I knew what lengthwise and crosswise grains were, the weft and the warp, the selvage, and true bias. Click image to enlarge.

How to Tell Fibers Apart

How To Tell Fibers Apart (page 12) from Singer Sewing Book by Mary Brooks Picken, 1949. Click image to enlarge.

The green dress in this illustration resolves that problem by using inverted box pleats.  The pleats . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: A 1950s Dress With No Apparent Opening]]>

If you’ve been following the Clothes Make Magic series on my Modern Retro Woman blog, you know that the 1950s iconic full skirt that gathers at the waist is not the best silhouette choice for women with “prominent” hips.

The green dress in this illustration resolves that problem by using inverted box pleats.  The pleats are stitched down to the lower hip area providing a smooth line but then the pleats release to create the illusion of full skirted-ness.

As I continued to examine this dress, it occurred to me that there is no apparent way this woman can get in and out of the dress.  My original thought was that there was a zipper along the left seam because that was common practice in the 1950s.  But then I realized that there aren’t any side seams…at least according to the illustration.   I’m going to go with assumption that the illustrator took some license and that there are, indeed, some side seams. But then, how did she get the neckline over her head?  And back zippers don’t usually go through this type of collar.  See the problems?

As for the dress on the right, I love the button opening on the bodice but the illustration makes it look like the skirt was poorly made and that is why it is pulling to the right (and, we won’t even ask what she is doing with her right hand out in public…).

What do you all think?

Image courtesy of April Mo on Flickr.com

If . . . → Read More: Drafting Skirt Pattern Sew Along Lesson 4: Checking the Fit and Fixing Problems]]>

In today’s lesson, I show you how to check your pattern to make sure everything fits correctly using your muslin/practice skirt that you made in Lesson 3.  I also show you how to make some basic changes to the pattern. (Here are the links for  Lesson 2 and  Lesson 1 if you missed them)

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them either in the comment section below or on the Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Facebook page.

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What I love about vintage sheath dresses is that they had a . . . → Read More: Vintage Inspiration of the Day: Blue Suit]]>

If you are like me, you look better in a sheath type dress suit rather than a skirt suit (and pant suits look horrific on me…I’m always in awe of those women who can actually pull it off without looking dumpy or matronly).

What I love about vintage sheath dresses is that they had a design element so that they weren’t plain like today’s basic (and almost always sleeveless) dresses are.  I love the tab detail at the neckline of today’s inspiration that is repeated at the hem.  The shirt-style jacket looks sophisticated without trying too hard.

How this dress could be replicated: Take a basic princess seam sheath pattern.  Redirect the seam to the mid-shoulder, if you need to. Trace it so that you have a copy that you can cut up.  Cut the top and bottom off of the center front to create the tabs (don’t forget to add overlap and seam allowances!).  Tape the  tab pattern pieces to the side front pieces.  I’d sew the tab pieces to the center front (after applying a facing to finish the edges) and then attach the center front to the side front pieces.  And, there you have it!

Image courtesy of April Mo on Flickr.com

History

Lyocell, also known by its trade name Tencel, was developed to try and . . . → Read More: Rayon and Lyocell: Separated At Birth]]>

In our last textile lessons, I’ve been discussing the explosive history of rayon and what we need to know about sewing with rayon.  Today we will discuss lyocell, which the United States Federal Trade Commission classifies as a subcategory of rayon.

History

Lyocell, also known by its trade name Tencel, was developed to try and counteract the negative environmental impact of rayon.  In fact, when it was first introduced in the early 1990s, it was marketed as a type of rayon.  Even though the US Federal Trade Commission classifies it as a subcategory of rayon, lyocell’s unique characteristics earned it its own generic classification.

Production and Structure of Lyocell

The only part I really understand is that lyocell is a cellulose fiber like rayon.  Then everything gets all chemically and stuff.  The cellulose is dissolved in amine oxide which is a chemical with low toxicity and low skin irritation.  It also dissolves the cellulose pulp without changing the nature of the cellulose.  Then there is more stuff I don’t understand because it’s been 30 years since I took chemistry.  Apparently, lyocell doesn’t collapse on itself like rayon does because it has a more rounded cross section and is smoother.  Finally, “the polymer chain length is longer than that of rayon, but not as long as that of cotton.  drawing the fibers after spinning increases the orientation and crystallinity and makes lyocell more durable” (Textiles, 10th Ed., by Sara J. Kadolph).

Translation into English would be greatly appreciated by someone who knows what all that means.

I think the gist of all that is that it is good stuff.  And that is why it is usually about twice as expensive as rayon.

Lyocell fiber on the left, cotton fiber on the right

Aesthetics:

• Very adaptable to end use.  The luster, length, and diameter of the fiber can be varied according to the end use.
• Can be used by itself or blended with natural or manufactured fiber.
• Offers the unusual combination of strength, opacity, and absorbancy

Durability:

• Performs similarly to cotton
• It is the strongest of the cellulose fibers
• Unlike rayon, it has high strength when wet
• Produces comfortable and long lasting clothing and furnishings
• But, it has a tendency to split lengthwise (fibrillate) and produce a fuzzy, hairy texture when rubbed which causes problems if the fabric is supposed to be smooth

Comfort:

• Soft, smooth fiber that makes comfortable clothing
• Problems related to static electricity are low
• Has high level of absorbancy
• Thermal retention is poor–it won’t keep you warm
  

  Image courtesy of SparklingScraps on Flickr.com

Appearance Retention:

• Has moderate resiliency
• Wrinkles but not as badly as rayon
• Shrinks but doesn’t progressively shrink like rayon
• The tendency to fibrillate causes problems with pilling and fuzziness and other surface changes.

Care:

• Can be machine washed on a gentle cycle or dry cleaned.
• Dark or intensely colored fabrics should be dry cleaned to avoid changes to the hand and unacceptable color distortion
• Sensitive to acids
• Resistant to most organic solvents
• Susceptible to damage by mildew and insects

Uses:

• Professional business wear
• Leotards
• Hosier
• Casual wear
• Bedding
• Upholstery
• Window treatment fabrics
• Conveyer belts
• In fibrillated form: filters, specialty papers, medical dressings

Generally speaking, lyocell is considered an environmentally friendly fiber.  The wood pulp is harvested from tree farms and the solvent is recycled efficiently.  Theoretically, lyocell is biodegradable.  However, it is most often disposed of in landfills where it doesn’t have the ability to degrade.   That said, most fiber is not eco-friendly–even organics use up a lot of water in the process.  Compared to other fibers, you can use lyocell without feeling guilty.

What is your experience with lyocell or Tencel?

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A little bit of new lace . . . → Read More: Podcast: Who Is In Control? You or Your Machine?]]>

In this podcast, I talk about the very first lesson you should learn when sewing by machine…and any time you get a new machine.

Links

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Photos/Images:

A little bit of new lace and the slip is as good as new!

Go to Chocolate on my Cranium for a tutorial on sewing along lines (she even includes a PDF for practice):

From Chocolate on My Cranium's "Sewing Along Lines" tutorial

What kind of relationship do you have with your sewing machine?  Are you the one in charge of it?

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This was my textile identification assignment when I was in design school. I had to . . . → Read More: Podcast: Muslims, Muslins, and Salvaging Selvages]]>

In this podcast I discuss the difference between Muslims and muslins and selvage and salvage.

Links:

Click here to listen to the podcast via direct download

Click here to subscribe in iTunes

Subscription feed for other players: http://grandmassewingcabinet.libsyn.com/rss

 Images:

This was my textile identification assignment when I was in design school. I had to show that I knew what lengthwise and crosswise grains were, the weft and the warp, the selvage, and true bias. (Click on the image to make it larger)

Test muslin 1.0; This is the muslin I made for the corselette using heavy weight muslin fabric to mimic the coutile that I used for the actual corselette.

Airjet looms are currently the fast looms around.  They can shoot about 900-1100 weft yarns (“picks”) through the loom per minute (as opposed to about 300 per minute for traditional looms).  In this video, you can’t actually see the yarn shot through but you can get a good idea of its speed and, about midway through, you can see the fabric right as it is created.  The speed is amazing!

In today’s lesson, I show you how to draft a basic skirt sloper and pattern.  You will need the measurements you took in Lesson 2.  You can find the information about supplies you will need in Lesson 1.

I created a free step-by-step 18 page handout, with illustrations, that you will be able . . . → Read More: Drafting Skirt Pattern Sew Along Lesson 3: Drafting the Pattern (w/video)]]>

Dear Friends,

In today’s lesson, I show you how to draft a basic skirt sloper and pattern.  You will need the measurements you took in Lesson 2.  You can find the information about supplies you will need in Lesson 1.

I created a free step-by-step 18 page handout, with illustrations, that you will be able to use to create your pattern (because it is such a comprehensive booklet, you will need to go through my shopping cart to get it…but it is still free).

Click here to download the (free) Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Skirt Pattern Drafting Guide

But that’s not all!  I also created a video tutorial that follows that handout and shows you how I go about making a skirt pattern.  The Mister was my camera man for this lesson.  The tutorial is in four videos because You Tube puts a time limit on video uploads (Update: I just figured out how to make the time limit rule disappear and in the future I won’t have to worry about a video only being 15 minutes long).

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask them either in the comment section below or on the Grandma’s Sewing Cabinet Facebook page.

Part 1:

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4