Photo courtesy of aliexpress.com
I don’t know about you, but I was totally confused by the terminology the first time I bought silk from an online store. Some places use the abbreviation “mm” and other places use “ply” to describe their silk. What does this all mean in English, please?!
Momme (abbreviated as “mm” and pronounced “mummy”) describes the weight of the silk. One mm weighs 3.75 grams. One ounce is equal to 8 silk mm. I don’t know why it isn’t an even number. They didn’t consult me when they were coming up with the system. Basically, the majority of silk fabrics are produced in several weights. The higher the number, the heavier the fabric. Knowing the momme system enables you to know that a silk with a 15 mm weight is not going to be a bottom weight fabric. Under 20 mm is considered lightweight fabric, 20-28 mm is medium weight and anything over 28 is heavy weight.
Ply actually refers to the number of silk yarns that are twisted together. A single ply means that two yarns have been twisted together. Double ply means that two single plies have been twisted together (for a total of four yarns). Thus, 3-ply means 3 single plies have been twisted together, 4-ply is 4 single yarns and so forth. Manufacturers ply their yarns to “increase diameter, strength, uniformity, and quality (Textiles, 10th Ed., Sara J. Kadolph).” Interestingly, two-ply yarns are found in the best men’s broadcloth shirts so I don’t know why silk producers would go with 4-ply yarns. Perhaps it is because silk fiber is so fine that it needs the extra plies to bulk it up a little bit.
You might encounter habutai or china silk or crepe used in association with silk fabric. Those don’t describe the weight of the fabric but rather the yarn and fabric structure. Texere Silk tells us,
Habutai is a Japanese word meaning “soft as down.” Habutai is a plain weave of silk, originally hand woven of single warp yarns and filling yarns of hand-reeled silk, which made it slightly irregular. Habutai usually has a natural, ecru color, and is known to wrinkle less than other fabrics. Both Habutai and China silk are soft, lightweight and lustrous. Very closely related, both have a soft graceful drape, and a smooth surface. This silk is the “hand” or touch that many people identify as silk. Habutai is natural in color, sheer and ivory, and China silk is smoother and usually dyed. Seams may pull open on tightly fitted garments. Sews relatively easily, and doesn’t show pins marks. It is best for lingerie, dresses, blouses, and light jackets.
Crepe describes the twist of the yarn. Crepe fabrics are so forgiving because the yarn has been twisted within an inch of its life. Crepe silk has a beautiful drape and is primarily used for garments.
The highest quality silks come from Japan. India is known for handwoven wild silks with a pronounced texture. Thailand’s iridescent silks are created by weaving two yarn colors. Remember, there are over 30 countries producing silk so there will be a variation in quality.
Finally, when buying silk fabric, try to find “pure silk” or “pure dye silk.” Silk may be treated with a solution of metallic salts–called weighting–to increase its weight, hand, and dyeability. However, weighted silk isn’t as durable and strong so the Federal Trade Commission ruled in 1932 that anything labeled pure silk or pure dye silk could not contain more than 15% weighting for black and 10% weighting for all other colors. To be fair, most silk isn’t weighted anymore but you don’t want to be stuck with an inferior silk. Also, keep weighting in mind when buying vintage garments. Many museums are stuck with silk garments that are “shattering” (disintegrating) because of the weighting.
Next time we’ll finish up our lesson on silk and other insects that create silk (think twice before pulling out that can of Raid!)
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