After two months and lots and lots of concerned letters from listeners, I was finally able to record and post a podcast!
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First things first, though. Here is a photo taken of Alice and me when we were at my sister’s house planning my grandfather’s memorial service and taking care of other logistics.
Basic Shells
All of the Big 4 pattern companies have a “fit pattern” that is their basic block. Basically, all of the designs springboard off of that basic block in one form or another. One of the main things I learned from my Patternmaking through Draping class is that if I create a basic block using the fitting shells from the Big 4 companies, it will give me a better understanding of what I
need to do to make their patterns look great on me. This is Butterick’s fit shell (number B5746). Because each company has their little quirks in fit, you need to do one for each company…although I am wondering if McCall’s, Butterick, and Vogue all use the same specs now that they are the same company.
I’m thinking about having a fit shell/basic block “sew along” in a couple of months because I now know how important they are.
As an aside, Caroline, over at Diary of a Sewing Fanatic often uses her “Tried and True” dress as the foundation for her creations. Essentially, her T&T dress has become her basic block.
Ode to Dior Final Project
Using my basic block, I was able to springboard from it and create a “New Look” inspired dress. Here is the fit sample made from muslin:
Fit Sample Front
The raglan sleeves were a little funky and my stand-up collar was about 2 inches too short in the back (easy fixes).
Fit Sample Back (pinned)
All of that hard work resulted in this:
Ode to Dior
Ode to Dior Back
In the back view, you can see why I shouldn’t be redrafting a neck facing at 4:30 in the morning and resewing the collar into the neck at 5:30 in the morning. I was sooo disappointed when I realized that I wasn’t matched up and that the top of the zipper was caught in the collar. But I wasn’t about to rip it out and try again. I lost points for it but I earned extra credit for doing Hong Kong seam finishes throughout the dress.
My youngest sister, Jill (Alice’s mother), tried it on. It fit her through the hips and waist beautifully. But Joan The Dressform is much perkier and endowed that 99% of the female population who have a natural bustline so the front of the bodice didn’t fit her very well.
Lots of good learning that I am looking forward to sharing with you!
So glad that you are back. It made my day to see that you had posted a new podcast!
Welcome back! I love your podcast, it made my day too!!
I was going to say what June posted – SO glad you are back and I haven’t even heard this episode yet. I’m glad that you posted a pic of Alice – so sweet. Please keep posting either with the blog or podcasts. I always learn something from what you share.
If you have counters on your blogs, you will have to discount your totals by the ten times a day I check them.
I’m not sure you’ve said — did you make the “Ode to Dior” for yourself? I think I have one of those fitting patterns from my mother’s collection so I’m familiar with the concept. However, I’m sure that one is out of date.
Thank you, Ladies. It was a rough day for me today and your encouragement means a lot to me.
@Kathy, the dresses for the class were for the dress form (the one I named Joan). We all commented about disappointing it was that we worked so hard on dresses that we’d never get to wear.
I guess I haven’t been following very closely — I missed the stuff about Joan. Yes, I agree that it’s hard to hold your inspiration when you can’t use your creation, but perhaps it’s easier to teach if everyone is using a standard model.
I meant, my classmates and I commented about how disappointing it is…I don’t think I really was explicit about the clothing being for our dress forms until I responded to your message
So glad you are back. I am following your Modern Retro Woman also. It is interesting that everyone fits garments to the dress form which is all one size. I enjoy your clothing construction classes. Please keep sharing your adventures!
Love that you are back with a podcast…missed you terribly! And, I think your brother better be really, really careful or you are going to slip that baby in your purse and keep her!
She is adorable…and I know she will steal your heart!