By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 24th, 2012 I’ve got a sinus infection. Again. Mucking around in the dust and the constant air pressure changes due to the weather are the culprits. And maybe a wee bit too much sugar on Sunday, too.
Anyway, I’m in that crazy state where I just want to nap but I can’t seem to fall asleep. If the television were hooked up to the outside world, I’d probably be flipping channels from one bad afternoon show to another. But we made the choice a couple of years ago to remove that influence/time waster from our lives and so I’m now wasting time on the Internet until I have the energy to do something productive. Like the dishes.
So, I’ll just peruse some of my favorite sites and “pin” some vintage outfits that catch my eye…
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 19th, 2012 In a podcast last summer about planning your wardrobe like a fashion designer, I mentioned that this Simplicity pattern would be used to create core pieces of my capsule.
 Simplicity 3129; Personal collection I’ve worn basic sheaths for what seems like eons, so I wasn’t concerned about whether that look would look good on me or not. But I made up muslins for the bodice and the jacket to test the fit of the patterns. Boy am I glad I did! They looked awful on me because of the sleeve being part of the bodice (also known as a kimono bodice).
As I’ve been learning from the Clothes Make Magic series on Modern Retro Woman, my figure type needs strong shoulders to balance out my ample bustline and hourglass figure. Strong shoulders means set-in sleeves.
My heart wasn’t set on the jacket, so I’m abandoning it and using the sheath dress as inspiration for a more flattering cut. View C (the grey one on the right) from McCall’s 2401 fits the bill!
 McCall's Sewing Pattern #2401
The silhouette is basically the same but the cut is more flattering for someone like me. This dress will give a more slender and taller illusion because there won’t be a waistline seam to break up the vertical movement of the eye. In fact, the fisheye/close-ended darts will create vertical lines for the eyes to follow. The set-in sleeve will make it easier to make narrow, sloping shoulder adjustments. I will include 1/4″ shoulder pads to reduce the impact of my sloping shoulders.
One of the great “a-HAH!” moments I had when I was taking my first pattern making class is to look at the silhouette first and then work on the details within it. We can take inspiration from vintage patterns but we don’t necessarily have to replicate them exactly to achieve our wardrobe goals.
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 17th, 2012 In this podcast, I we continue our lessons from the Singer Sewing Book, published in 1949. Today’s topic is the second lesson in making sure you are using the right fabric for your project.
Subscription feed for other players: http://grandmassewingcabinet.libsyn.com/rss
Only Own Beautiful Clothes Challenge Virtual Retreat
This virtual retreat and year-long challenge are inspired by Solano of the Vixen Vintage blog. On December 5, she wrote:
Sometimes I get asked this question: “How do you manage to wear beautiful clothes everyday?” Short answer: I only have beautiful clothes.
The Only Own Beautiful Clothing Challenge Kick-off Event
 "The Plus in Your Wardrobe" Hollywood Patterns advertisement; "Ladies' Home Journal" January 1945; Image courtesy of Salty Cotton on Flickr.com Whether you spend your days primarily at home, at school or in an office, you deserve always feel confident in everything you wear. I am challenging my readers and myself to only own beautiful or confidence-inducing clothes in 2012.
The Only Own Beautiful Clothing Challenge kick-off event is a virtual retreat. When you attend a virtual retreat, you get to stay in the safety and comfort of your own home while benefiting from the personal development of a retreat. Participants “meet” via telephone conference call before going off to complete their task. Then everyone comes back together for a conversation before going on to their next reflective task. It sounds absolutely crazy but previous participants of my virtual retreats swear by the process!
During this retreat you will learn how to:
- Identify your style icon
- Create your own style that showcases your personality
- Outline a wardrobe plan the same way designers create their collections
- Assess your current wardrobe
- Develop a year-long game plan for only owning beautiful clothing that is in alignment with your budget
Cost: $25
Date: Saturday, January 21, 2012
Location: The Comfort of Your Own Home
Time: 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 noon Pacific Standard Time
Please adjust the time for your own time zone
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 16th, 2012 I’ve been on a massive organization kick for the past week. While digging around in our basement (burying the skeletons I found in the closet), I discovered that I have a lot more patterns than I thought I owned. I won’t need to be buying any for a long, long, long time.
Lo and behold! Look what I found! A pattern from the early 1950s for various stoles! I think adding it to my Only Own Beautiful Clothes collection was meant to be, don’t you?
The original owner traced the pattern pieces onto newspaper from the Philadelphia Inquirer and the Trenton Something in 1956. Since I haven’t lived in New Jersey since the summer of 2000, I’m guessing that this pattern was part of my early vintage pattern collecting endeavors.
 Simplicity 4477 Stoles pattern; personal collection
All of the views look like capes from the back, it is the front that is different. I’m leaning towards View 2 because of the shawl collar, using hidden hook and eyes to keep it closed and to give it some shaping. Views 2 and 3 have inner armbands to help keep it on the shoulders.
It is only partially lined. I will probably line the entire thing and make several stoles to match the skirts and dresses I make in the collection because making it looks pretty straight forward.
Only Own Beautiful Clothes in 2012
By the way, there is still time to register for the Only Own Beautiful Clothes in 2012 virtual retreat (this link will take you to my other blog).
During this retreat you will learn how to:
- Identify your style icon
- Create your own style that showcases your personality
- Outline a wardrobe plan the same way designers create their collections
- Assess your current wardrobe
- Develop a year-long game plan for only owning beautiful clothing that is in alignment with your budget
We’re going to have a great time and hope you’ll join us!
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 10th, 2012 When I came across this vintage skirt pattern years ago, I was drawn by the promise of making a skirt out of one pattern piece. They even show two women holding up yardage with the pattern pieces on it as if they were using a flannel-graph to tell a story in Sunday School. I’m not sure what the skirt and waistband are supposed to represent, however, if they really are telling a Sunday School story.
But I digress.
For these “instant” skirt patterns, all the seamstress had to do was pin the entire pattern tissue over one yard of folded fabric and then cut it out. See how easy that is? Because, as we know, having to lay out two pattern pieces on the fold can be quite daunting.
All joking aside, I am intrigued that the skirt is cut out of one piece. There are darts on the side seam to deal with the hip curve issue and then the usual number of darts in the front and back for shaping. I also like the walking pleat detail (and you know what a sucker I am for kick pleat details).
Skirt #1 McCall’s 4312 (1957)
 McCall's #4312 "Instant Skirt" from 1957; Personal collection. Because this is a basic skirt design that I know looks good on me, it will automatically be added to my “only own beautiful clothes in 2012″ wardrobe capsules. Yes, I know I already have a skirt that is almost identical to this one. I made it out of linen just a couple of months ago. But the idea of making a skirt without the side seams is a challenge I want to tackle.
Do you know what the skirt and waistband are supposed to represent in their flannel-graph Sunday School story? Because, surely, they aren’t planning on cutting out the pattern while holding the fabric that way…are they?
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 5th, 2012 I did a little “snoop shopping” while I was at the mall last Saturday taking advantage of a couple of gift cards and sales. I noticed a couple of the better department stores had tuxedo blouses for sale.
This Vogue pattern from 1948 is for a blouse with tucked extensions in two styles. The view with the lace gives more of an illusion of a tuxedo blouse than the other one. I think it would look gorgeous in a georgette or chiffon.
Candidate #3: 1948 Vogue Blouse
 Vogue 6296; Image from personal collection
Pros:
- On trend
- Vertical front seam and side dart will enable easier full bust adjustment
- Vertical optical illusion
- Back waist darts for shaping
Cons:
- Do I really want to draw attention to that area of my body??? Even without the lace, the tucks are a design feature that will draw attention to my overly abundant chest
- Buttons
What do you think? Do you think it would draw too much attention to my chest?
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 3rd, 2012 When I was in grad school, I think I had a silk shell in every color that Chadwick’s offered. It was just a basic woven top with a keyhole neckline. They also had small shoulder pads that I loved. I just checked and they don’t offer them anymore. They just have knit shells. Despite the fact that I loved these shells, I had the bust/shoulder/neckline issue that I talked about yesterday. To get them to fit around the bust, the neck and the shoulders were too big and I was always tugging at the shoulder seam.
So why did I put up the hassle of wearing them? The advantage of a shell is that it can be dressed up or down, depending upon the fabric choice and the outfit. In fact, if you look at this pattern envelope, it shows a capsule wardrobe and how the pieces can work together to create various looks.
Candidate #2: Early 1960s Advance 2972 Shell Blouse
 Advance 2972, early 1960s, Image from personal collection.
 Advance 2972 Line Drawing; Image from personal collection.
Pros:
- Design feature of buttoning up the back
- Classic look
- Vertical darts make for easier full bust adjustment
- Can be worn untucked
- Only 5 pattern pieces
Cons:
- May need to grade pattern up
- Will need The Mister to help me button up the back (oh the tragedy of it all!)
- Neckline emphasizes heavy necks
- Buttonholes (Even though my Viking makes them automatically, I still have an aversion to them)
What do you think of Candidate #2? Have you ever used one these capsule wardrobe patterns?
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on January 2nd, 2012 One of my goals for 2012 is to start thinking of my sewing in terms of “collections” rather than “projects.”
Another goal for 2012 is to only own beautiful and/or confidence-building clothes by the end of the year. This year-long challenge is inspired by Solano of the Vixen Vintage blog. On December 5, she wrote:
Sometimes I get asked this question: “How do you manage to wear beautiful clothes everyday?” Short answer: I only have beautiful clothes.
If you’d like to join me in this challenge, I’ll be facilitating a virtual retreat to help you get started in building an “only beautiful clothes” wardrobe.
Currently, almost all of my tops are a knit of some sort or another. Modern knit tops are not flattering on me because I am so well endowed. If the top fits my shoulders, I look like a “sweater girl.” Not exactly a look I’m eager to replicate. If it fits across the bustline, the shoulders and neckline are usually way too big.
This week, I’ll be looking at vintage blouses to use as a core pieces in my capsules. I’m hoping to find one or two patterns that can be dressed up for a professional look but also appropriate for “at home” or running errands.
Candidate #1: 1940s Vogue Blouse
Pros:
- Dart placement that is a modified princess line (the best for full bustlines)
- Shoulder darts for a better fit along the upper back
- Weskit style waist that doesn’t require being tucked into a skirt or pants but will still look “neat” and “together”
- Tailored yet feminine
Cons:
- Have to be careful of “gaposis” with button placement and good fit
- Mandarin collars are not exactly “double chin” friendly (hopefully, this will resolve itself as the year progresses)\
- I would have to draft this pattern since I only have an image of it
What do you think of this blouse?
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on December 28th, 2011 The Mister and I saw The Artist yesterday. It was the first movie we’ve seen in a theater in ages. But, it was our anniversary so we decided to splurge. We were glad we did. It is a great movie and we highly recommend it. As far as I can tell, it is still in limited release but hopefully it will go into wide release, soon.
The female lead character’s name is “Peppy Miller.” For several scenes, she is wearing a late 1920′s party dress:
 Screen shot of Peppy Miller in The Artist from http://weinsteinco.com/sites/the-artist/ I had a big “a-HA!” moment while admiring the costume she was wearing. You don’t see it at first, but if you look closely at the deep-V of the neckline, you’ll see that there is a flesh-colored chiffon or georgette panel. This gives the illusion of a deep V neckline while also providing a great deal of modesty.
So often I want to say to starlets on the red carpet, “Yes, your breasts are lovely. Now, do you mind putting them away?” We can be quite sexy, as the photo shows, without being revealing.
Most vintage sewing patterns are modest, but if you come across one that you like but are a bit concerned about the neckline, just use the Hollywood trick of adding a flesh-colored chiffon panel!
By Dr. Julie-Ann, on December 26th, 2011 Raise your hand if you’ve been known to start a party dress the day before (or the same day) as the party. Yeah, I knew I wasn’t the only one! We’re in luck, though, because we still have five and half sewing days until New Year’s Eve.
My Vintage Vogue put this photo of Rita Hayworth up last week.
 Rita Hayworth, 1940s; Image courtesy of MyVintageVogue.tumblr.com
Even though it is a Christmas outfit, I was drawn in by the sweetheart neckline. I love sweetheart necklines because they can be either daring or modest (which is what I prefer) and still be quite flattering on the wearer.
For those of us that aren’t Rita Hayworth, we can get the gist of her Christmas outfit with something like this vintage McCall’s pattern from 1957:
 McCall 4302 dress copyright 1957; Image courtesy of Megan Harris on Flickr.com This version of the dress isn’t quite so form fitting and the upper collar can be redrawn to meet at the lower neckline. I’d close it with hook and eyes and pin a bow on it. I think it would be fabulous in a jewel-toned taffeta or faille.
What do you think? Are you a sweetheart neckline person?
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